|
|
Post by V2 on Feb 5, 2008 21:44:50 GMT 8
welcome, mias! you can check out mechapinoy for more information on painting and such. www.mechapinoy.net/forum/looking forward to your works soon! |
|
|
|
Post by PilapZ on Feb 6, 2008 0:20:34 GMT 8
Thanks for the warm welcome sir PilapZ!  I guess I have to go with the sprays discipline first since I really need to practice things with my hand before I go nuts with the hand painting...  Pero OK naman yung basic hand paints on some very particular parts for the gundam (katulad yung mukha and chest).. What I really don't understand much is the portion where you need to put cement/ epoxy. Hehehe. That's just to say I'm worse than a noob.. ahahahaha.. Btw, I guess I'll go for sprays first before heading on some advanced skills. Do you have any tips on it? Thanks really sir, really appreciate the reply!  spray spainting is an excellent choice amigo.  i dont consider myself an advanced modeler yet, i just do the basic spray painting. just check out the link from my thread on how i build my kits. the questions were asked from master Lotur. note: im not saying this is the one and only way of building gundams. it's just my way of basic building. greattoysonline.proboards43.com/index.cgi?board=gundamtoys&action=display&thread=1180629232&page=32try visiting the following sites for tutorials as well: www.fichtenfoo.comwww.dannychoo.commechapinoy.nethope that helps amigo. |
|
|
|
Post by tagabukid on Feb 6, 2008 21:45:09 GMT 8
Hello guys, just made my way here after getting inspired by the wondrous works of sir vic01, PilapZ, GN 004, Tagabukid, raps, Lotur, hackundertaker, crim, no3Ljm, archaznable and to all those gundammers that i will not be able to mention.. nice work guys. ;D I really do love to display my kits on one of the boards but I guess there are only a few. I lost them before since my parents wanted me to dispose of them "coz of the evil presence behind it"..  So, in short- kakastart ko pa lang mag collect last quarter of 2007. I am a gundam builder but just basically building the kits- and then that's it. I would just want to start painting my kits and also like to thank all of you for your threads that gave me idea on how to build and paint one. If you won't mind, what kind of tools do i need and as well as the paint? either handbrushing, air sprays, panneling, and etc... Is that a good start to do those painting stuff on 1/144 scale?? I guess I was just motivated to do these things when i saw your kits on the boards.. Really cool guys!!  Hope you can give me tips on the tools, paints, or whatever things i would need to start with. Thanks!! welcome aboard, sir mias! first of all, a heartfelt thanks for appreciating my kits. thanks very much as a backgrounder, you're just a snap-builder back then, right? and now that you're beginning to rekindle the old flame of kit-building, you want to take the next step by painting your (future) kits. that's good, follow your desires and act on your emotions ;D as for tools... handbrushing: scout for reeves and/or best buy brushes from national. there are two types of brushes, go for the softer ones. go for no. 2 or 3. for fine-tipped ones, i suggest sakura brushes (national also) or tamiya (lil's). wide tips for large areas to cover, fine tips for detailing. stroke via criss-cross technique or the good old uni-directional method. thinning is a must. not only it saves paint, but it also makes you more "in-control" when brushing. the thicker the paint, the uglier the result will be (and the thicker the surface finish as well). acrylic paints are more cheaper than enamel. they dry fast and best of all, water-based. enamels - being oil-based - will take a lot of time for drying but are slightly more durable than acrylic. my personal preference is acrylic because i can easily wash away the paint marks on my hands and brush lol spraycan painting: tamiya spraycans offer wide array of color, but are priced stiff and comes in small package (pun intended) compared to industrial spraypaints (IS). however, you are limited to IS's color offering in exchange for a cheaper price and additional contents. i recommend IS by toa/win or pylox. bosny offers metallics, fyi. pylox so far offers the most colors among the IS available in our hardwares. must have is a plastic primer by toa/win if you intend to seal * your kits or create a custom color of your own. panelling: there are a lot of ways to conduct panelling, the easiest is through markers and the most recommend is the wash technique. markers tend to "overflow" the thin panel lines giving your panels a "thick" finish. several techniques can be done to "clean" it - finger smudging, mark and sand (c/o sir PilapZ), my mark and scrape method, and cleaning via cotton buds dipped in a thinner. you may check out the info i posted here regarding panel lines. wash technique offers a cleaner, more professional finish by via capillary action. this is achieved by thinning the desired panel line color in a near-water feel. dip a brush in the thinned color and let it flow/wash through the panel lines. wipe the excess paint with cotton buds dipped in a thinner. however, wash technique requires you to observe the "paint hierarchy" so as not to destroy the base paint with the panel lines' thinner. just search the net for more info regarding panel washing *if you intend to paint your kits, you may as well seal it to hide those ugly panel lines. sealing requires the use of tamiya thin cement (for hairline seams) and putty (for large gaps). in my case, i use industrial epoxy as substitute for putty (economical reasons lol). visit the site i've posted above, i also shared my technique about sealing my kit there. seems like this is no quick reply, but hope it somehow addressed your quick question |
|
|
|
Post by tagabukid on Feb 6, 2008 21:51:36 GMT 8
ADDENDUM: it's a must to top coat your kits - be it handpainted, spraycan painted or airbrushed - with clear coat (flat or gloss, it's your call). not only for your kit's protection but to add extra "wow" points to your kit it's good to try all methods you can. me, i've done both handbrush and spraypainting on my kits, and the combination of both techniques on my mg wing zero custom ;D |
|
|
|
Post by miasong on Feb 7, 2008 0:27:16 GMT 8
To Sir V2, PilapZ and as well Tagabukidph- Thanks so much for all these.. I guess I will be into a lot of reading and all.. but I don't care as long as I'll learn to have my kits shine as yours.. ;D I really envy all of your work guys. Here in Cebu, only a few collects gundam kits and that is why only few kits arrive here- and if good ones do come, prices are at high stakes.. Hehehe. That is why I ended going online and bought all my items from sir malvs. The collectibles I buy from him are all HCM Pros and as well as Fix Figs/ Cosmic Region- price is high and as well as I only enjoy modelling it- not "really" building it like you guys. So that's when I started to go for HG first- and the first set I completed was my favorite which is the ew edition of wing (except for talgeese). Then I went to one g seed fav of mine which is infinite justice- but just built- still no paint. I will try to study some ways on the sprays first (the basics) And then I will go with the painting style on the face of the gundams.. Thank you all.. It's really a great help and if I can take pictures of the progress. I'll be posting it here too, soon.. ehehehe Thanks again and until next time.. |
|
|
|
Post by V2 on Feb 7, 2008 7:06:57 GMT 8
ah yes.
i've been to cebu a few weeks ago. the prices are indeed "disastrous"...
|
|
|
|
Post by GN on Feb 7, 2008 18:16:00 GMT 8
any ideas what type of gold this is? any brand which carries this shade of gold you might know or might have encountered? I find it hard to look for a very nice shade of gold like this one..  |
|
|
|
Post by PilapZ on Feb 7, 2008 22:37:19 GMT 8
looks like tamiya gold leaf with a touch of glossy finish. there's a possibility they used clear yellow also to give it an extra shine. |
|
|
|
Post by LadyLuck® on Feb 7, 2008 22:37:41 GMT 8
|
|
|
|
Post by miasong on Feb 7, 2008 23:56:21 GMT 8
@ V2 ehehehe.. indeed, prices are way too high- that would be the reason why a few cebuanos go into gundam kits (they mostly collect marvel and dc, or if not- transformers or starwars).  @gn-004 cool zaku there.. V2, tagabukidph and PilapZ i have listed the needed requirements to begin with. I have also done my research at ayala's ace hardware- bosny, toa/win or pylox are around 120 or something and tamiya spray cans are about 270 each.. and tamiya cans are smaller compared to the industrial paints/spray cans. i will be searching sm by saturday and will be in touch to give you the progress i made with my kits... baka mag thread ako "mias army" lols.. tagal tagal pa cguro.. eheheh Thanks to all!! |
|
|
|
Post by qb on Feb 8, 2008 0:13:25 GMT 8
miasongbro...that's a gouf. you can also try RJ spray cans. they should be about 110php a can. One can should last you about 2 1/2 kits. quick question: is it safer (and more effective) to use denatured alcohol instead of paint thinner for paint stripping? thanks!
|
|
|
|
Post by miasong on Feb 8, 2008 4:16:07 GMT 8
awww. tsorrii.. my mistake..  |
|
|
|
Post by JQ on Feb 8, 2008 7:05:35 GMT 8
quick question: is it safer (and more effective) to use denatured alcohol instead of paint thinner for paint stripping? thanks! Don't even think about using denatured alcohol, bro. Magsisisi ka! |
|
|
|
Post by tagabukid on Feb 8, 2008 11:46:14 GMT 8
as with the 'golden' gouf, i think sir PilapZ got it right: gold leaf + (semi) gloss coating. nice etching on the model as well looking forward to your happy progress, sir mias ;D |
|
|
|
Post by qb on Feb 8, 2008 12:10:32 GMT 8
@jq
Hehe. Thanks for the warning. What'll happen if I do?
|
|
Pero OK naman yung basic hand paints on some very particular parts for the gundam (katulad yung mukha and chest)..
