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Post by raps on Aug 22, 2007 14:42:04 GMT 8
Wow!!! very nice Amuro M.S. ang lupfeeeet!!!!.... Your Zeta C1 looks sharp... are you gonna complete the Zeta's too?
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guy4yah
Gashapon Super Robot
Posts: 63
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Post by guy4yah on Aug 24, 2007 11:40:59 GMT 8
nice looking akatsuki vayeate! Did you paint it or you just snap it? Coz I'm thinking of building mine.
I need help. I'm having a debate of painting the gold part or not. And if I did will it still be as shiny as it used to be? And after painting if I use the tamiya polishing compound will give it the same effect? Or should I just leave it as it is and just paint the non-gold parts? What's the best thing to do?
Assuming that you didn't paint it, Did you put any glossy top coats after applying the decals or will you leave it as it is?
Is there anyone here that had the same problems with gold plated parts??? I need your guidance please.
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Post by vayeate on Aug 24, 2007 11:57:22 GMT 8
Well I don't paint any of my kits... I just handpaint the small details that needs some painting like the inside of boosters, some small parts that are not separate from a part having a different color. What I did with it is to color only the non gold parts that are going to be exposed when assembled. I'll try to look for those parts in the manual and list those parts I painted with gold. Hope I will get the time though.
I only have some advice when assembling these gold plated kits. They are mostly on panel lining cause the kit is almost good to go when it comes to color and needs some accents using panel line. IMO. They are:
1) Wash out method for panel lining will probably be a no-no cause it may strip the gold color and leave you a silver but shiny surface.
2) Still on panel lining, pen-eraser method is a no-no too for the same reason (this I got an experience but not the wash-out).
3) On panel lining still, steady hands to avoid doing no.2 and avoid using a solution to erase the mistake.
4) Plastics used for gold plated are kinda "crunchy" so be careful.
5) The gold coating are kind of easily chipped when started from the point of cutting the extra gate materials so be sure to paint it to "lock" it again.
Hope these helps! ;D
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Post by jnthn on Aug 24, 2007 12:41:18 GMT 8
cool tips!
but i got a question on gold-plated parts too....you said to not use the rubber eraser coz it might strip off the plating, but what if you spray it with clear gloss coat first before you do your panel lines, will the plating still come off if you try to erase on it?
thanks.
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guy4yah
Gashapon Super Robot
Posts: 63
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Post by guy4yah on Aug 24, 2007 12:50:58 GMT 8
Those are good tips. ;D
Also, after you done the panel lining do you spray it with a flat clear coat and then after that the glossy clear coat or leave it like that without putting any top coats? Thanks again for the tips!
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Post by vayeate on Aug 24, 2007 20:11:24 GMT 8
@jnthn: I don't know about that but topcoats will really make the panel lines stay there better which is unfortunate if you have shaky hands cause error will be harder to remove. I haven't done it but the way topcoats are like paint makes lining "permanent". IMO. guy4yah: Don't know what will happen... sorry  but you can look at my [glow=yellow,2,300]previous post[/glow] to see the difference. |
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Post by kingaL on Aug 25, 2007 7:24:01 GMT 8
I think if you spray the goldplated parts with topcoat (either flat or gloss), the parts will not be as glossy/shiny as the original color.. I've experienced this with my HG hyaku-shiki or did I spray it the wrong way???
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guy4yah
Gashapon Super Robot
Posts: 63
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Post by guy4yah on Aug 27, 2007 1:22:01 GMT 8
@king_aL
Did you ever regret doing it after you've seen the results and you wish you shouldn't have coated your hyaku-shiki? Or you will still do it eventhough it will not be as shiny/glossy as it used to be?
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Post by kingaL on Aug 28, 2007 6:01:46 GMT 8
no regrets bro..=)
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Post by vayeate on Aug 28, 2007 11:51:11 GMT 8
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Post by qb on Aug 28, 2007 14:58:01 GMT 8
Woah! Awesome Zetas bro! ;D I just love those shots of all 3 of them in Waverider form. Cool!  Also, noticed that the Nu Gundam is bulkier than the Hi-Nu? Is that really how it was designed in the series or is this just something with the kit? |
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Post by no3Ljm on Aug 28, 2007 16:04:22 GMT 8
And as sir no3ljm’s request, Amuro’s MS side by side comparison.  Thanks for viewing!!! ;D  now i'm also excited to have my own MG Nu-Gundam to complete Amuro's MS just by looking at your picture. but soon pa.  again, thanks bro.Also, noticed that the Nu Gundam is bulkier than the Hi-Nu? Is that really how it was designed in the series or is this just something with the kit?
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e39
Gashapon Super Robot
Posts: 71
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Post by e39 on Aug 28, 2007 17:31:42 GMT 8
Wow Vayeate! Nice update. You transformed all of the Zeta kits...cool! I had a hard time doing the transformation in my A1 plus so I never did the transformation.
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Post by raps on Aug 28, 2007 20:01:37 GMT 8
Awesome!!!!! Zeta's!!!!! now I'm convince to get a Z3 and also Zeta ver.2 I still got the old ver. 1 kasi.... cool Amuro line-up bro.... NU Gundam is still the tallest Gundam on the block....
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Post by qb on Aug 28, 2007 21:39:46 GMT 8
Also, noticed that the Nu Gundam is bulkier than the Hi-Nu? Is that really how it was designed in the series or is this just something with the kit?
thanks for the info bro.... based on the links you provided, the Hi-Nu is shorter than the Nu but they seem to be of the same base weight. i'm assuming that they meant just the MS without the funnels and the weapons. maybe bulkier is not the correct term, maybe span-wise, the Hi-Nu is wider, perhaps? |
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but you can look at my 
Jun 6, 2013 3:45:32 GMT 8
Jun 6, 2013 3:45:32 GMT 8
keeping the site active as a place to dump info for easier backtracking. 
May 30, 2015 3:32:15 GMT 8
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