painting / panel lines tips

[crufodiang]

i will... many many thanks to all of you masters

[Gane]

Dec 23, 2008 3:05:48 GMT 8 qb said:

you still need to apply a gloss coat before the decals so that they don't stand out on the part. some decals still have those clear parts that stick out after applying so applying the flat coat on them will just make them stand out more which is what you're trying to avoid. they need to look as natural as possible on the kit so gloss coat first before final flat coat.

If you want to avoid the clear parts in decals without having to worry about them during any coating:

- use your pen knife (x-acto knife cutter) to trim the decal from the sheet,
- apply decal,
- apply decal setter, this will "eat" the clear parts and leave the decal design on the plastic.

Warning though, it would be best to try a spare decal from your decal sheet (like the brand logo) before attempting this because burned decal is hard to replace and improper application could result in some white spots.

- Apply coating to seal the decal in place which could turn yellow when left alone untreated.

Good Luck ;D

[arravan]

I plan on making a 1/100 Wing Zero Custom using acrylic paint and the stickers. Just wanted to ask if the stickers will react to the top coat.

The friend of my brother said the top coat would eat the 'stickers', but, I seriously doubt him. Might as well be sure so I asked here.

Then again, why stick to the 1/100 Wing Zero Custom. Will any of the stickers from any other gundam models react to the top coat?

[Protoform-S]

Please be reminded of proboards' all english rule.

[machinedolphin2]

I really appreciate this thread. I am just a newbie when it comes to modeling and so far I was very afraid to apply paint on my models. This thread somehow is giving me the courage to go for it and as I browse to the thread I have decided to give it a try. Hope it works for me. Thanks a lot guys ;D

[christine_03]

goodluck. have fun

[cervantes21]

Mga sir i have a noob question.. dont know where to post it but i think its somehow related to this thread... Its confusing me for a while..

Many said that coating a kit (flat gloss, clear gloss, etc.) will protect it from yellowing, but ive seen my friend kit and all of its white parts became yellowish in color. he said it is due to the coating he applied.. Is it caused by the brand or the way he applied the coating or its just a natural occurence?.. I know primer will also prevent the kit from yellowing but its a lot of job that need to repaint the kit again... Can someone help me?

[tri3dge]

The yellowing of kits which had been top coated is due to dust accumulated from the environment.

True that topcoats protects the kit from yellowing from sunlight, however it is still vulnerable to dust accumulation (pretty much like the yellowing of MOC Toys). A bit of soap and water may remove it but not entirely. So it is pretty much advisable to repaint the whole kit.

[cervantes21]

thanks sir.. im planning to bring my kits on the next level but there are still lot of things that confusing me (top coat, enamel wash, etc.) Anyway everyone starts here... Thanks to this forum im learning a lot =)

[Evangelion]

Anybody have an idea what color and type of paint used for the panel lines of this kit?

[yanos626]

May 7, 2008 21:17:23 GMT 8 蠍座 shinn said:

1. you can ask PilapZ about this

2. yes... it does come with dry transfer decals... i believe all MG kits come with this...

3. yes

4. try gundam markers... you can use the sumiire grey for the white parts and the black ones on colored parts... i guess you'll be getting your paints from Lil's... they sell gundam markers there... just ask for the "pinakamanipis" ones... or you can try the wash technique if you know how to do it...

5. you can try this:
a. sand
b. paint
c. topcoat (glossy)
d. decals and panel line
e. topcoat (glossy)
f. topcoat (flat)

hope that helped dude... good luck! ;D

will there still be a good effect if I don't plan on painting some if not all the parts and still do all the other steps? (everything except B)


sorry guys i'm still a newb

[Gane]

Jan 18, 2010 19:04:44 GMT 8 cervantes21 said:

Many said that coating a kit (flat gloss, clear gloss, etc.) will protect it from yellowing, but ive seen my friend kit and all of its white parts became yellowish in color. he said it is due to the coating he applied.. Is it caused by the brand or the way he applied the coating or its just a natural occurence?.. I know primer will also prevent the kit from yellowing but its a lot of job that need to repaint the kit again... Can someone help me?

Jan 18, 2010 20:30:21 GMT 8 tri3dge said:

The yellowing of kits which had been top coated is due to dust accumulated from the environment.

True that topcoats protects the kit from yellowing from sunlight, however it is still vulnerable to dust accumulation (pretty much like the yellowing of MOC Toys). A bit of soap and water may remove it but not entirely. So it is pretty much advisable to repaint the whole kit.

Untreated plastic will turn yellow overtime because of chemical reaction in the materials reacting to its environment. But don't worry, if you take good care of them (dusting and washing when needed) chances are you could enjoy the same whiteness longer, even untreated.

Never use hardware top/flat/clear/coats as they were not created to prevent this, otherwise stated. Although as mentioned, you can find special versions of these hardware spray paints but they tend to cost twice as much.

Hardware brands like Bosny and such, tend to yellow because it's the characteristic of their chemical composition.

For better results on your figures and kits buy the brands used for model kits.

I recommend using Mr. Surfacer (gloss) if you're displaying the figures/kits on open spaces because this minimizes the need for soap and water; cleaning can be done with just the use of a soft paint brush.

Flat paint has grit so it's best to keep it covered.

Mar 24, 2010 16:28:26 GMT 8 yanos626 said:

will there still be a good effect if I don't plan on painting some if not all the parts and still do all the other steps? (everything except B)

sorry guys i'm still a newb

Yes, most new Bandai kits (Kotobukiya needs more work in painting some kits) are molded in their correct colors to eliminate the need for painting. But we all know we still have to do some for accuracy.

But if you're getting HGUC/144 kits then a bit more painting is required. The smallest concern would be matching the plastic's color, which is harder than buying the specific Gundam Color paint or pen... if they are available...

Now if only Bandai's System Injection 21 wasn't so darn expensive in production... ;D

[iammario]

noob questions here. sorry im new in gunpla modelling

Are there TYPES of Canned Spray Paints? or are they all the same?

Does the color code of canned spray paints correspond to those in the gundam manuals?

And which is better for brush painting the minor details, enamel, lacquer or acrylic? I am really confused about these types of paint even after reading this entire thread.

And which types of paint do I need to dilute with a thinner? and in what proportions?

Thanks very much to those who'll reply. Desperately need answers. The boxes of gunplas are piling up in my room cause I can't finish them all.

[redknight]

I use tamiya and mr color. But I prefer mr color spray can.

No I do not follow the gundam manual color code. They are only use for airbrushing and also hand brushing.

I prefer my kit to be metallic so I prefer metallic color.

Tamiya and mr color spray paint are acrylic.

Any type of paint-thinner dilution should be always milky consistency.

Don't worry about boxes piling up in your room. I got boxes piling up under my bed and at my drawer. Basically got some kit diplayed in every room of my house. =) It's kinda gundam theme you know =)

[iammario]

^ thanks sir redknight!
your da best! i'll buy the paints first thing tomorrow morning!
weee gundam summer!