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Post by itemtracer on Oct 6, 2005 11:09:07 GMT 8
Hello fellow kit collectors! ^_^ I need some help regarding Putty; the type that modelers use to repair/modify their model kits. I've a few questions and I hope someone would be kind enough to help me out: 1) What is the best type of putty for a newbie to use? (a newbie who already has experience with sculpting clay models but ZERO experience with modifying GUNPLA kits...) 2) How do you apply/use this putty? How much time should one let it set and cure before it's ready to be detailed/modified? (I've seen pictures of models with putty used for modifications but have never seen an ACTUAL application.  ) 3) what are the tools that one can use to shape or detail the putty once it's cured? Can you cut/sand the putty? Sorry if my questions seem a bit demanding. I'm just really excited with the possibility of modifying my MG RGM-79 GM into a cold district's GM ^_^ Thanks to everyone who can help! |
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Post by Ryuhao on Oct 6, 2005 13:21:59 GMT 8
Hi, nice to know that I'm not the only one who is into mod/scratch building.
I'm currently self-teaching myself and bought scratchbuilding manual to boot. I found the information for the ff.putties and their application and I'm going to share it to all of you.
1. Tamiya putties- there are several types, like quick type, light cured, smooth type. I found the smooth type is better than the quick type. BTW these putty is 2 parts, hardener A and resin B. You will need to knead them in equal parts. Working time is about 20 mins. I guess before it start hardening. It will harden in about a few hours, then you can file, sand or cut it.
2. Industrial grade putties- Same like tamiya putties, 2 parts A and B as well. But once cured, is a bit harder than Tamiya putties, but it's cheaper. So if you're in fix, you can use this but you will need to work a bit more on it.
3. Polyester Putties- I've tried 2 Brand for Hobby types. Tamiya and Mori Mori. Both are expensive. Polyester putties is also 2 parts. Part A is like a gooey substance and Part B is either a yellowish or greenish paste. The mixing ratio is 100:1, 1 being part B (hardener). Once mixed, it will give you about 5-10 mins. working time. Once it hardens (about 15 mins.) you can already work on it, you can cut, sand and file this as well. Polyester putties is easier to work on than the tamiya putties.
4. SSP-HG- this is a japanese brand of putty. If you have those Dengeki or HJ magazines, this is widely used for scratchbuilding, and dubbed to be the "best putty". Actually this is just a mixture of "super glue" and "micro ballons". Micro ballons are a powder like substance that are small glass bits in reality. Once the 2 parts are mixed, it becomes a "pinkish" substance that will give you about 5 mins. working time. This one is also workable, sand/cut/and file.
5. And the most practical. SGT (Super-Glue and Talc) mixture.- mostly at 50/50 mixture. Once you mix SG with Talc (baby powder) it will have an additional feature that an ordinary SG does' nt have, "flexibility", by far I find it best when filling holes and edges on my kit parts. It is easily cut and filed as well. And the most important factor... it's cheap.
Hope this helps ;D ;D ;D
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rampart
DX Gashapon Super Robot
Posts: 190
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Post by rampart on Oct 6, 2005 13:37:32 GMT 8
Nice reference Ryuhao!  If I may add, when working with Epoxy putties keep your hands wet. A piece of wet sponge in a glass should the trick to achieve a cleaner finish on your models.  |
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Post by Ryuhao on Oct 6, 2005 13:41:48 GMT 8
Nice reference Ryuhao! If I may add, when working with Epoxy putties keep your hands wet. A piece of wet sponge in a glass should the trick to achieve a cleaner finish on your models. Hey Rampart. Thanks. Yeah you're right, this one is on the Tamiya and Industrial Grade 2 part putties. I forgot to add another type. Tamiya Basic putty and Mr.Hobby 500 Surfacer (bottle type). These one are grayish liquids that you can slop on to fill holes and gaps. Downside is it will shrink when it hardens. |
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rampart
DX Gashapon Super Robot
Posts: 190
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Post by rampart on Oct 6, 2005 13:46:18 GMT 8
I only use putty as last resort. For small gaps I apply Tamiya cement, the type which contains resin. It seaps in nicely in the small gaps, and makes puttying unnecessary. |
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Post by Ryuhao on Oct 6, 2005 14:10:00 GMT 8
I only use putty as last resort. For small gaps I apply Tamiya cement, the type which contains resin. It seaps in nicely in the small gaps, and makes puttying unnecessary. Yes, I also use these. There are 3 types of Tamiya cement, The orange cap (80% Organic Styrene Solvent/20% Synthetic Resin), White Cap (85%Organic Styrene Solvent and 15% Synthetic Resin) and The Green Cap or Extra thin(which is 100 % Organic Sytrene Solvent I think) |
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Post by Daycot on Oct 6, 2005 16:32:56 GMT 8
What properties differentiate the orange capped cement from the white capped one? Whats the basic use of the thin cement? ;D
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Post by Ryuhao on Oct 6, 2005 17:36:10 GMT 8
What properties differentiate the orange capped cement from the white capped one? Whats the basic use of the thin cement? ;D Truth is, I don't find anything much different between the orange and white capped. I just bought both of them to experiment ;D This is used to fill in minor gap between surfaces you want to join. The extra thin cement is the one I use more often. This one will "melt" the surfaces you want to join and once it hardens, it will have the same strength as the styrene itself. Also it is easier to apply because you can join the two pieces together, then touch the application brush to the groove and it will spread thru the gap via capillary effect. |
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Post by vic01 on Oct 6, 2005 17:53:46 GMT 8
Im using and prefer thin cement from tamiya. I dont really know why, but it gives me better results than tamiya putty, but in other way around, you need to use some putty, hehe!
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Post by Daycot on Oct 6, 2005 18:22:19 GMT 8
In other words, the thin cement can be used on the parts that are already joined right? I have a problem with the scraps that I bought. The leg parts' have been glued at the pegs so I cant take them apart without risking damage to the part itself. Will using thin cement on the groove solve this problem? ;D
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Post by vic01 on Oct 7, 2005 3:55:34 GMT 8
In other words, the thin cement can be used on the parts that are already joined right? I have a problem with the scraps that I bought. The leg parts' have been glued at the pegs so I cant take them apart without risking damage to the part itself. Will using thin cement on the groove solve this problem? ;D Yeah it will, after applying it to the seams, it will melt the plastic and combine them and you can sand them to make it flat like putting a putty on it, kinda clean than putties. Its also easy to apply the cement (thin or regular) becoz it has a brush on its cap, just like putting nail colors for the girls. But hindi ko pa natry i-paint ung parts na linagyan ko ng thin cement. Hindi ko pa na-sand, hehe! ;D |
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Post by itemtracer on Oct 7, 2005 4:19:15 GMT 8
*sniff* so much useful information... Thanks people! I've recently purchased two types of putty: Tamiya and Mr. Epoxy putty (!) Expensive, but really easy to work with. I've started modifying my poor GM with it and soon it *might* look like the 1/100 cold districts type that I've always wanted!
Durrr.... No digital camera yet meaning no pics... I'll try to show you guys some pics once I get my hands on one!
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Post by Daycot on Oct 7, 2005 13:24:14 GMT 8
I only tried the cement with the orange cap. I will get the thin maybe tomorrow. d**n weather is not letting me paint my kits!  |
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feelgood
DX Gashapon Super Robot
Posts: 150
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Post by feelgood on Oct 24, 2005 14:43:25 GMT 8
Hi guys... i dont know kung late na yung reply ko but if you're looking for a good putty i suggest getting the Gunze Sangyo Dissolved putty. Sa Cement... try Tamiya Extra thin or Academy. Regarding epoxy puttie for your mods... tamiya is the best but you can also use local brands such as Pioneer.
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Post by delta408 on Aug 4, 2006 2:45:36 GMT 8
what about bondo auto putty? will it harm Gunpla?  |
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keeping the site active as a place to dump info for easier backtracking.