Help! How do you remove paint? (updated 1/7/08)

[raven55]

Hey, all! I think i may have a problem in my hand.

I usually build and paint my gundam kits. I haven't used cement before until now with my current project the zeta ver 2.0.

Problem is i already applied primer on all parts and finished paint on some parts when i decided to use cement. So i bought Mr. Cement Limonene type.

Several tries the cement doesn't seem to work. So i pulled up my snap built kampfer to try the cement on it. Seems to work fine. So i sanded down the painted part of zeta to expose the styrene, STILL NOTHING (or i didn't do a good job at sanding it???).

Ques:

1) is the primer/ paint in the zeta preventing the cement to work?

2) if so, what can i do? do you know of any type of cement that could work with primed and painted parts?

3) OR (i hope not) don't i have any choice but to strip all the paint off the parts?

4) if so, how do i go about stripping it off?

Thanks guys. Really appreciate your suggestions.

[JQ]

In my experience, the primer/paint was the one preventing my sealant/cement to work on my kits. So, I ended up stripping the primer. Since then, I don't apply primers until I'm sure that the part is sealed already.

You might need to strip off all the primer/paints to solve your problem, but I'm not sure because there might be another way.

But if in any case you want to strip off the primer/paints, use 90% alcohol or Pinesol for stripping. The Pinesol works fine but the 90% alcohol is much better IMO.

Hope that helps.

[raven55]

Oh my... I was afraid of that... well, i'd rather redo everything than ruin the kit.

I could only guess that the alcohol is much cheaper than pinesol? Is 90% alcohol available anywhere? and can the alcohol strip lacquer paints as well?

Thanks a lot man. I'm regaining hope. Hehehe.

[JQ]

Well, there's only one place in Manila I know where you can buy the 90% alcohol. It's in Bambang. I forgot the name of the store though but if I remember clearly, the store sells stuff for medicine students.

For Pinesol though, you can try your local hardware store or check SM Hypermarket. Last time I saw one was in SM Hypermarket priced around P100-P120.

[raven55]

Uy, Bambang! I grew up there (or at least the earlier years of my childhood) so i won't have a hard time looking for the med supplies store. =)

[Daycot]

You can try using superglue to remove the seam lines from your kit. The paint will also react with the glue and it will melt. Don't let the superglue cure completely. Just wait for 5 minutes and sand away. The superglue/paint combo will look like you used putty. This works very well with the primed parts. In the completely painted parts, that's a different issue.

Hope this helps! Good luck!

[raven55]

Thanks, Daycot. I've heard of this superglue and i've been trying to find 1. Is this the same as crazyglue? Can you give me the manufacturer and where i can buy it?

[raven55]

Question again. sorry to be a bother but...

Cement is used to melt/ hold the parts together right? if i used putty instead (without removing the paint), would that hold the parts together or is it only really used to seal orifices?

[no3Ljm]

actually, putty can seal parts too. though i find it expensive if you used it overall. but to fix mistakes and opening, it's ok to use putty.

btw, there's already an existing thread regarding Paint Remover[/b][/u]. maybe you can find your answer there.

hope that helps.
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[raven55]

Thanks No3! i'm really getting frustrated (again) on this problem. will read the thread. keeping my fingers crossed.

[PilapZ]

regarding about removing the paint job, my answer for that is Pinesol.

it's available at Truevalue in Park Square One, Makati. It's located near Lil's Hobby Shop.

based on experience, it was a life saver for me.

[raven55]

UPDATE:
i tried industrial grade lacquer thinner by aplying it on a brush and passing it on the surface of the part and you guessed right... it did remove the primer along with the top layer of the styrene. PLUS! it also made my pointer finger and thumb numb for almost an hour! Hahaha! that's what i get for going head on with it without enough info. ;D

@ no3
Again, thanks for the link. it was very informative.


PilapZ
I already got mself a bottle of pinesol yesterday though haven't tried immersing the parts yet. I guess i'm being TOO CAUTIOUS. (because of the lacquer thinner incident) Can you tell me how to go about it? I read the directions and it says i have to dillute it 1st... but that's for cleaning purposes. how about stripping paint? do i still have to dillute it? and for how long should i leave it soaked?

[JQ]

For Pinesol paint removing process, you have to immerse the part for at least 10-15 minutes and then brush away. Be careful though, use gloves when you make contact with the solution or else... well, you can ask PilapZ on what happened to his skin after brushing his parts without protection. ;D

[raven55]

Thanks JQ! But do i dillute it 1st or should i use the concentrated solution??

Sounds like there's an interesting anecdote there... Hehehe.
Hey, PilapZ! What happened to your hand?? =D

[Gane]

raven55 said:

UPDATE:
i tried industrial grade lacquer thinner by aplying it on a brush and passing it on the surface of the part and you guessed right... it did remove the primer along with the top layer of the styrene. PLUS! it also made my pointer finger and thumb numb for almost an hour! Hahaha! that's what i get for going head on with it without enough info. ;D

Nice but you just gave the plastic a corrosive substance there if I'm not mistaken...

According to professionals NEVER use thinner in removing paint. The thinner will affect the plastic in the molecular level that it is almost like rust to steel.

I made this mistake with my Gojulas many years ago, now I can't connect his tail to the body because that part discolored and crumbled almost damaging the Zoid when it fell to the floor.

You could do a quick search at finescale.com for removing paint for the best result... so far Pinesol is indeed the safest bet...

Good Luck