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Post by omnicloud7 on Apr 25, 2009 4:11:38 GMT 8
Hi guys! I was really wondering what this frosting meant. Anyone have a pic that shows this frosting? I'm really curious as to what it looks like. i've been TopCoating for a while now, sometimes even at night, and I'm not sure if my results are frosted ones, but to me, they do look nice anyway. Even a comparison shot of frosted topcoats and normal topcoats would be nice if ever anyone has one. many thanks in advance!  |
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Post by bryan1216 on Apr 25, 2009 5:35:43 GMT 8
It looks like a bottle of cold drink taken out of the fridge.
When that happens after applying the topcoat, a rough texture is a result and if the kit has decals, they are blurred.
What kind of topcoat are you using, flat or just clear? And what brand?
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Post by omnicloud7 on Apr 25, 2009 12:54:58 GMT 8
hmm, I've been using Mr Hobby's TopCoat for a while and I was very satisfied with my results. Recently, a good friend of mine suggested using industrial topcoats since Mr Hobby's were too small and much more expensive. He suggested I try using Bosny or RJ London's. I was able to only get RJ London Dull Lacquer since that was the only one available at the time. I was so amazed that it was more than 2x the amount of Mr Hobby's can, but for less than half the price! I tried using it, what I got was a rougher texture on the model than when I used Mr. Hobby's, but based on looks, the results are very much satisfying, even more satisfying than when I used Mr. Hobby's. Decals are not blurried, and there is no "snow" on the kit. But I got to thinking, since I got a rough texture, is this frosting? |
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Post by Gane on Apr 25, 2009 14:10:42 GMT 8
The rough texture is because you have a dull/flat/matte spray paint and not a regular clear spray paint.
It gives off a non-glossy finish and this is the cheapest way to achieve a flat coat. I haven't tried Tamiya or Gunze flat coats so I don't know how rough they are, but I do have both flat and plain clear Bosny/RJ spray paints.
You will however get that frosty effect if you apply more than what you needed. Sometimes 1-2 coats' fine but more than that you can get this frosty effect. It's not a good sight and feel though, because it's like having a Gundam Sandpaper... ;D Hey that's a catchy Gundam name, Gundam Sandpaper... ;D
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Post by bryan1216 on Apr 25, 2009 16:58:23 GMT 8
Gane: lols. a gundam that turns his foes into metal dust particles XD
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Post by omnicloud7 on Apr 25, 2009 19:54:56 GMT 8
many thanks sir genji and sir bryan. haha, gundam sandpaper, every sword (not beam sword) that hits him will automatically become blunt.  |
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Post by Gane on Apr 27, 2009 13:52:44 GMT 8
You're Welcome
Gundam Sandpaper can also polish when he uses his Sand Grasper 4200mil...
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Post by omnicloud7 on Apr 27, 2009 23:06:51 GMT 8
follow-up question guys. if ever, i noticed some kits of mine have that "alikabok" look. But the weird thing is, I only see it under the sun! I don't see it under any means except when it's under direct light. It brings about my OC-self though. I think this may be frosting. (wow, what a coincidence  ) any tips on how to remove this? except for applying a new coat, because i would need to disassemble it and spray. I'm afraid of disassembling it because i might break something. It's the MG Strike Freedom's wings, so it's quite fragile to disassembling.   many thanks in advance! |
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tri3dge
DX Gashapon Super Robot
Posts: 241
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Post by tri3dge on Apr 28, 2009 7:13:24 GMT 8
Sanding the affected part sometimes helps, otherwise you have to strip the top coat with some bleach or thinner.
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Post by bryan1216 on Apr 28, 2009 9:14:03 GMT 8
Just like tri3dge said. Sanding will help. Make sure that the sandpaper you will use is for plastic modeling. About the bleach or thinner, consult the senior modelers here for more info. The plastic might melt or become brittle because of excessive use of it.
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Post by Gane on Apr 29, 2009 13:55:05 GMT 8
Just one question though...
Where did you spray? In closed door with enough ventilation or in an open space like outside the house or vacant room?
It should be noted that some spray paints dry slower which tends to allow tiny specs of dust sticking to the surface without your noticing it. This is also the reason why professional kit builders (not me) use a painting booth which has a fan that sucks out the air around the booth and including wayward sprays.
If this isn't possible, make sure the area where you use the spray paint should not have wind or air passing at any speed. Make sure you have a material that will cover the entire material after spray painting.
Repairing depends on how much plastic you need to clean up. If the whole kit is affected stripping is the only solution. for smaller areas use sand paper with higher grit like 1200 above and reapply topcoat and paint only on that area to avoid over-coating the rest.
Btw it should be noted that prior to sanding or stripping, make sure the paint has dried a good 24 hours (minimum) or better yet a week for best result. This is as suggested from Scale Auto Enthusiast Magazine (remember those great real car finish?).
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tri3dge
DX Gashapon Super Robot
Posts: 241
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Post by tri3dge on Apr 30, 2009 18:07:10 GMT 8
Usually its recommended to spray outdoors around when the sun is at its peak (7:00am - 9:00am or 12:00pm - 3:00pm), that way the risk of frosting is lessened (heat from the sun "melts" and evens the top coat).
Spraying indoors is only ideal if you have a proper spray booth (with air duct and lamp). Ideally if you have an air duct, since fumes are very harmful.
Hope that helps.
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