oldskul
SD Gashapon Super Robot
I don't have to agree with you to like you or respect you.
Posts: 46
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Post by oldskul on Apr 17, 2011 23:11:41 GMT 8
i must admit, wipe and shine being acrylic based, i still have doubts on it's durability, resistance to water & detergent, etc. swanny's site is a great opener on the product, but in order to know more, i needed to research about it. mainly to know its ingredients and full characteristics. here are the summary of info that i got from different sites: -a floor finish will dry to a hard, durable and smooth film. -the film is about the thickness of waxed paper. -it may contain as many as 25 ingredients, some of these ingredients evaporate while others remain after drying. -the main characteristics of a floor polish includes: hardness gloss clarity scuff resistance slip resistance water and detergent resistance buffability removability recoatability toughness -the 5 basic categories of floor finish ingredients include: (1) polymer emulsions- trade secret, generally known to be made from acrylic or styrene type monomers (i wonder if this styrene is related to gunpla styrene . (2) film formers- the ingredients include coalescing agents, plasticizers, wetting and leveling agents and antifoamers. it is important to minimize evaporation by keeping floor finish containers covered or closed when not in use. problems associated with a loss of coalescing agents by evaporation include: poor adhesion, low gloss and poor durability (so when handbrushing floor polish, tis better to cover the container where you keep it). plasticizers make the floor polish flexible and impact resistant, without it polymers would crack and break. leveling and wetting agents prevents the finish from pulling apart and puddling during the drying process. antifoaming agents rapidly break bubbles and stop them from becoming imperfections. (3) modifiers- include alkali soluble resins, wax emulsions, urethanes, ultraviolet absorbers and metal crosslinkers. alkali soluble resins are added to improve leveling, clarity and gloss. also for removability, detergent resistance, color, recoatability and water resistance. wax emulsions are for slip resistance, durability, toughness and high speed buffability. waterborne urethanes are for chemical and water resistance, improved adhesion, impact resistance, and flexibility. ultraviolet stabilizers prevent yellowing and discolorations caused by ultraviolet radiation (this i like too). metal crosslinkers connect the different polymer chains in the floor finish emulsion, for durability and removability of the floor finish film. (4) preservatives- protects the floor finish from attacks by microorganisms, which can destroy the floor finish, and cause discoloration and unpleasant odors. (5) deionized water- is used to prevent discolorations or reductions in gloss or clarity. hope you find the info insightful too.
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oldskul
SD Gashapon Super Robot
I don't have to agree with you to like you or respect you.
Posts: 46
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Post by oldskul on Apr 14, 2011 19:39:36 GMT 8
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oldskul
SD Gashapon Super Robot
I don't have to agree with you to like you or respect you.
Posts: 46
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Post by oldskul on Apr 13, 2011 19:09:24 GMT 8
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oldskul
SD Gashapon Super Robot
I don't have to agree with you to like you or respect you.
Posts: 46
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Post by oldskul on Apr 10, 2011 21:40:03 GMT 8
thanks man. here's my wishlist (all MG), after MG sinanju, whichever comes next: sinanju char's other MS (zaku2, z'gok, gelgoog, rick dom, zeong, rick dias, hyaku shiki, sazabi) other zeon aces' MS (the O, qubeley mk2, gouf, matsunaga's zaku2, ridden's zaku2, black tristar zakus, gouf custom, kampfer, & more) might take years for me to built them all
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oldskul
SD Gashapon Super Robot
I don't have to agree with you to like you or respect you.
Posts: 46
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Post by oldskul on Apr 10, 2011 18:23:02 GMT 8
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oldskul
SD Gashapon Super Robot
I don't have to agree with you to like you or respect you.
Posts: 46
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Post by oldskul on Apr 7, 2011 17:24:26 GMT 8
thanks guys WIP: HGUC Sinanju. almost done, waiting for paint to cure is (the boring) part of modelling. toned down the unsightly thick black panel lines on the head. the fumes must have gotten into my head that i did them this thick and black . repainted the head, using a thinner red paint, but not wash thin, allowing little of the black lines to show through. i'm using different shades of grey next time, and with hairline thickness, just to accentuate the crevices and separation on the armor. i'm finishing sinanju with a W&S coat, so when rubbing occurs on posing, it's just an easy touch up with W&S. made this workflow, to systematize and maybe prevent any problems on my future builds- also i usually just hold my breath when using the spray cans, then run away from the toxic fumes in the spray area (my backyard). so decided to buy a respirator (dual cartridge) and safety glasses from the local DIY store, to protect my health from the toxic fumes. it's better safe than sorry (it's just a hobby . and lucky me, found my old Tamiya compressor and an unused Gunze airbrush. i'm glad my dear wife didn't throw this away back then, i don't have to buy a new AB set up yet- i think this type of AB - single action, external mix, siphon feed - is the easiest to clean and maintain. no paint enters the brush, just the tip. double action types, if you want them to be thoroughly clean, must be completely disassembled after every session. which is going to take some time. this single purpose AB is already ideal for basecoating and topcoating.
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oldskul
SD Gashapon Super Robot
I don't have to agree with you to like you or respect you.
Posts: 46
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Post by oldskul on Apr 4, 2011 19:03:44 GMT 8
WIP: HGUC Sinanju. all the gold trims finished- the gold painting was a challenge, i knew before getting this kit the intricate gold trims are not paint friendly at all. but i really like Sinanju, and he looks majestic with the gold trims. been wanting to built this badass since getting back to this hobby. anyways, i'm just glad i finally got to finish the gold painting. and sinanju is basically finish, just some final topcoats on some parts. and probably fix that dark wash on his head too. sorry for the slow update, i'm really a slow builder/painter.
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oldskul
SD Gashapon Super Robot
I don't have to agree with you to like you or respect you.
Posts: 46
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Post by oldskul on Apr 4, 2011 0:48:00 GMT 8
@ Genji & delta408: tnx for the advice sirs. i mix roughly 6 drops of Tamiya flat base & 5 ml of W&S to make a matte/satin W&S finish, here's a comparison with the plain W&S coat- i mixed it well and let it stand for a minute to dissolve the matting agent. there were some translucent white streaks forming (the matting agent), i just kept on handbrushing while the coat was still wet to remove the streaks and the accumulating W&S on the edges. i think matte W&S is best sprayed with an AB, atomization can spread the matting agent evenly. and speaking of AB, would like to invest on one for topcoating (maybe even for base coating). not the fancy ones cause i really hate the cleaning part. this one from Badger looks the easiest to clean-
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oldskul
SD Gashapon Super Robot
I don't have to agree with you to like you or respect you.
Posts: 46
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Post by oldskul on Apr 1, 2011 20:30:14 GMT 8
after a coat of W&S which i left to cure overnight, i topcoated the shield with Mr Color acrylic topcoat. when cured tons of miniscule top coat cracks appeared on the shield's finish tsk tsk. i suspect the W&S is still curing, after the acrylic topcoat dried, the W&S shrunk and cracks appeared on the acrylic topcoat above. another one to add to my painting philosophies- need to let W&S fully cure before topcoating. i'm just sad my first use of W&S mess up the shield's finish. i can strip the topcoat and W&S, then re-apply the acrylic topcoat sans the W&S. but i already did a good job on the gold trims and don't like doing them again. the miniscule cracks are only visible at close inspection, i can live with that. sprayed the weathered base of sinanju with semi-gloss, then a coat of W&S-
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oldskul
SD Gashapon Super Robot
I don't have to agree with you to like you or respect you.
Posts: 46
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Post by oldskul on Mar 31, 2011 23:37:54 GMT 8
hi ma'am, yes its a nightfighting Panther tank, outfitted with infrared searchlights and scope. WIP: HGUC Sinanju. after a buttload of gold painting this afternoon, finished the gold trim on the shield. there are some minor brushstroke impurities here and there but it's good enough, rather than using the foil stickers that makes the model look extremely cheap. a little tired from work, i didn't finish all the gold in one sitting, i might foul up on handbrushing them. also weathered sinanju's base- just a simple enamel wash, will let it set overnight. then a single top coat of semigloss, followed by a single coat of W&S for that nice sheen.
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oldskul
SD Gashapon Super Robot
I don't have to agree with you to like you or respect you.
Posts: 46
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Post by oldskul on Mar 29, 2011 18:25:24 GMT 8
hi bro genji, yes same thing happened to me. stockpiled boxes of unbuilt Dragon/Tamiya kits on one closet cabinet, then the termites ate the boxes. i think boxes in closed and humid cabinet attract termites. i was planning on reselling the kits cause i wasn't anymore interested with modelling at that time, but they're ruined so my wife decided to throw everything away. unknowingly including my Tamiya airbrush with compressor stored in a small box tsk tsk. WIP: HGUC Sinanju. painted the detail inside the shield and the small vents on the propellant tanks. a few things learned at this point about topcoating and W&S: 1. on unpainted parts, spraying with acrylic based topcoat is preferable after sanding, to remove/hide the unsightly sanding marks. 2. handbrushed W&S will not hide the sanding marks, but i can't say the same on airbrushing W&S (because don't have an AB yet). 3. the 1st W&S coat is somewhere in between semi-gloss and gloss. nicer than semi-gloss, but a little tone down than gloss coat. the second W&S coat has a deeper shine.
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oldskul
SD Gashapon Super Robot
I don't have to agree with you to like you or respect you.
Posts: 46
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Post by oldskul on Mar 28, 2011 23:37:37 GMT 8
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oldskul
SD Gashapon Super Robot
I don't have to agree with you to like you or respect you.
Posts: 46
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Post by oldskul on Mar 28, 2011 12:09:34 GMT 8
Your panzer tank looks awesome... you work like a pro... thanks sir, your MG collection is an inspiration to me. would love to have all my fave Zeon MS in MG format too someday. thanks for dropping by, best regards.
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oldskul
SD Gashapon Super Robot
I don't have to agree with you to like you or respect you.
Posts: 46
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Post by oldskul on Mar 27, 2011 17:06:43 GMT 8
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oldskul
SD Gashapon Super Robot
I don't have to agree with you to like you or respect you.
Posts: 46
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Post by oldskul on Mar 27, 2011 11:51:08 GMT 8
thanks for the tip, will definitely try it's toughness on an enamel wash. if i mess up, i'll use my artist acrylic sludge wash instead. well here's my first Future coat (well Pledge actually)-
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