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Post by christine_03 on Sept 11, 2006 18:41:16 GMT 8
neodark- i tape the plastic then clip the masking tape. just a tip. hehe. i really dont like scratches.... @ those part. i think what i did on those was i painted the parts before sticking them together. then i masked the parts and re-painted red afterwards
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neodark
DX Gashapon Super Robot
Posts: 239
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Post by neodark on Sept 11, 2006 18:51:47 GMT 8
The black part isnt a major problem since its part of the internal frame, i think il be doing hand brusing on that part, would poster color stick enough on a primed surface ? heres a close-up pic of how i clip them.  should sanding be done lightly lang,like just rubbing the paper on the surface w/o force? edit: i just tried sanding w/o any force and i scratched the primer.. so i guess Rj primers dont need sanding.. anyway when people say thin coats does it look like this ?  thats just 2 puffs from the pray can done by moving the spray can in a dusting manner. could that coat be a consideration of 1 think coat? and how much time inverval should yield best results in between coats ? Also if i add Gloss top coat, or Flat Top coat then decal then add a layer of Dull top coat will the gloss effect be removed? |
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Post by no3Ljm on Sept 13, 2006 9:39:17 GMT 8
edit: i just tried sanding w/o any force and i scratched the primer.. so i guess Rj primers dont need sanding..  IMO, if you use airbrush yuo'll know the difference of thin coat of airbrush spraying and spray cans. if it's from airbrush, you can really use the term thin. 'manipis kasi ang buga nang airbrush compare sa spray cans.' air pressure controlled ang airbrush while the spray cans naman is compressed air pressure. with that picture, normal yan on first coat. that's why we spray paint in 2-3 coats. it's what i explain before. remember that mas makapal ang buga nang spray cans kesa sa airbrush.
you can let it dry siguro for 10-15mins in between coats. just be sure to spray it under the sun. esp noontime. mas mabilis ang curing ng paint.decal works best on glossy surface. so you can remove the silvering edges of the decals when it's done. and yes, the gloss effect of gloss coat will be removed once you sprayed it with dull/flat topcoat.
hope that helps.
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neodark
DX Gashapon Super Robot
Posts: 239
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Post by neodark on Sept 13, 2006 14:01:04 GMT 8
In other forums i've read that Gloss clear coat is better for Wet transfer while Flat top coat is better for Dry..
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Post by Checkmate! on Sept 13, 2006 16:57:00 GMT 8
On silvering:
if your dealing with wet transfer decals cut/scored as close as possible around the decal. if you look closely you'll see maybe a half mm. of transluscent decal. thats what you need to cut off.
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neodark
DX Gashapon Super Robot
Posts: 239
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Post by neodark on Sept 13, 2006 20:45:51 GMT 8
On silvering: if your dealing with wet transfer decals cut/scored as close as possible around the decal. if you look closely you'll see maybe a half mm. of transluscent decal. thats what you need to cut off. That would require a use of of a very thin bladed scissors or those x-acto cutters,right ? |
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Post by delta408 on Sept 13, 2006 20:54:36 GMT 8
excactly.
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Post by Checkmate! on Sept 14, 2006 2:16:20 GMT 8
On silvering: if your dealing with wet transfer decals cut/scored as close as possible around the decal. if you look closely you'll see maybe a half mm. of transluscent decal. thats what you need to cut off. That would require a use of of a very thin bladed scissors or those x-acto cutters,right ? you can buy scalpel blades. that works perfectly.  |
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carlopogi
Gashapon Super Robot
fumo fumofu!
Posts: 55
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Post by carlopogi on Sept 14, 2006 8:23:34 GMT 8
mercury has scalpels availabe (not all branches)
bought mine at shang ri la plaza (ground floor) and in quezon ave near mcdo, the handle sell for around 30 pesos and the blade for 8 pesos ;D
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Post by delta408 on Sept 18, 2006 17:27:50 GMT 8
I found my grandfather's old scalpel (the one you have to sharpen yourself) and it's pretty cool. I also tried the RJ grey primer last night. I kind of like it better than the Tamiya Primer. |
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tobatz
DX Gashapon Super Robot
oi mga taga agilent peram ng penguin nyo ha hehe
Posts: 227
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Post by tobatz on Sept 19, 2006 2:35:58 GMT 8
hi sirs question if u don't mind , does anyone have tried using mr.hobby aqueous paint for panel/wash method? or is it better to switch to tamiya enamels?  thanks |
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Post by delta408 on Sept 19, 2006 10:14:27 GMT 8
when you say aqueous paint, is the paint semi-transparent? Just trying to get clarification; i'm a little ignorant of mr. hobby paints you see. |
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Post by christine_03 on Sept 19, 2006 10:41:51 GMT 8
@ tobatz? you mean the water based? i use the water based flat black for my panel lines... based on my experience the enamel sticks more and dries faster than the water based paints. enamels are removed by the thinner, this is sometimes hard cause it can get messy if you are not careful. harder to control. the waterbase paint when dry can be removed by simple alcohol. rub it a few times. it will removed the panel lines outside marked areas... any method is ok. just make sure you dont use the same paint for your panel lining and the kit itself. baka mabura lahat.
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Post by Checkmate! on Sept 19, 2006 10:59:59 GMT 8
when you say aqueous paint, is the paint semi-transparent? Just trying to get clarification; i'm a little ignorant of mr. hobby paints you see. aqueous means water-based. |
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Post by delta408 on Sept 19, 2006 12:16:30 GMT 8
oh, that's the correct term for water based. ;D *hides in shame*
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thanks
keeping the site active as a place to dump info for easier backtracking.