tornady
DX Gashapon Super Robot
~so moe~
Posts: 111
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Post by tornady on Apr 22, 2008 22:58:16 GMT 8
for inkwash panelling, is it ok to panel the kit after painting it? I mean, without the first layer of glossy coat? Based on my experience, you should first apply a gloss coat before doing a panel wash. A gloss coat will allow the wash to drip smoothly into the grooves/panel via capillary effect. The surface of a flat coat does not allow this. |
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Post by JQ on Apr 23, 2008 2:21:05 GMT 8
@no3ljm & tornady: Thanks for the tips!  Was just thinking about possibly skipping a step to make my production much faster. ;D |
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Post by bryan1216 on May 7, 2008 21:10:05 GMT 8
Guys, I need some tips/help in painting and panelling my incoming Destiny EBM. I'm planning to use Tamiya Spray cans(If you have other paints to recommend plz tell me^^).
1. Does anyone painted their G-Destiny w/its original color? Do you know the color codes? I really like the flat ones.(ex:TS-13 for Clear)
2. Does the G-Destiny EBM comes w/ dry transfer decals or just simply stickers???
3. Dry transfers will do fine with flat painted kits right???
4. What's the best thing to use for panel lines? I like my kits to look anime like.
5. Is my sequence right? Sanding the excess plastics from sprues, Paint all the needed parts to be painted then, panelling and putting on decals, lastly painting it again w/ clear flat coat(is this necessary??)
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Post by 蠍座 shinn on May 7, 2008 21:17:23 GMT 8
1. you can ask PilapZ about this
2. yes... it does come with dry transfer decals... i believe all MG kits come with this...
3. yes
4. try gundam markers... you can use the sumiire grey for the white parts and the black ones on colored parts... i guess you'll be getting your paints from Lil's... they sell gundam markers there... just ask for the "pinakamanipis" ones... or you can try the wash technique if you know how to do it...
5. you can try this:
a. sand
b. paint
c. topcoat (glossy)
d. decals and panel line
e. topcoat (glossy)
f. topcoat (flat)
hope that helped dude... good luck! ;D
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Post by bryan1216 on May 7, 2008 21:39:09 GMT 8
1. you can ask PilapZ about this 2. yes... it does come with dry transfer decals... i believe all MG kits come with this... 3. yes 4. try gundam markers... you can use the sumiire grey for the white parts and the black ones on colored parts... i guess you'll be getting your paints from Lil's... they sell gundam markers there... just ask for the "pinakamanipis" ones... or you can try the wash technique if you know how to do it... 5. you can try this: a. sand b. paint c. topcoat (glossy) d. decals and panel line e. topcoat (glossy) f. topcoat (flat) hope that helped dude... good luck! ;D 1. Ok, I'll try to PM him. 2. Yup, I know that too, but I had second thoughts coz HLJ's contents description didn't stated about any dry tranfers, only Foil Stickers and other detailing stuffs. XD 3. Ok, is water slide decals better than d dry transfers? 4. Ok, i'll do that ^^ 5. Awww... Do you have some finished examples with that sequence?? I'm not a bit sure w/the effects of the last 4 sequence you said. How, about the others, any other tips??? |
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Post by 蠍座 shinn on May 7, 2008 22:00:29 GMT 8
i believe waterslide decals are better but are more difficult to apply....
here's a short explanation for you:
step (c) is being done to protect the paint underneath and for you to be able to apply ink on the panel lines because using a topcoat(flat) would result to a different texture and that would be a problem for you with regards to inking...
step (e) is being done to protect the ink and decals without you "frosting" the kit because applying too much topcoat(flat) on a kit would result to frosting which you wouldn't want to happen... but this is optional if you are confident that you can protect the ink and decals with one layer of topcoat(flat)
step(f) is being done simply to make your kit look flat.... and applying topcoat(gloss) would not affect the final result of the kit if you want to apply a flat coat on the final layer...
this procedure was researched and not "hula-hula" steps... hope you find a better sequence than what i suggested....
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Post by bryan1216 on May 7, 2008 22:11:44 GMT 8
i believe waterslide decals are better but are more difficult to apply.... here's a short explanation for you: step (c) is being done to protect the paint underneath and for you to be able to apply ink on the panel lines because using a topcoat(flat) would result to a different texture and that would be a problem for you with regards to inking... step (e) is being done to protect the ink and decals without you "frosting" the kit because applying too much topcoat(flat) on a kit would result to frosting which you wouldn't want to happen... but this is optional if you are confident that you can protect the ink and decals with one layer of topcoat(flat) step(f) is being done simply to make your kit look flat.... and applying topcoat(gloss) would not affect the final result of the kit if you want to apply a flat coat on the final layer... this procedure was researched and not "hula-hula" steps... hope you find a better sequence than what i suggested.... I see, now that you've explained it to me, I'm positive that It will have good results. Sorry if I doubted you a bit, I'm a beginner, I don't know much about the do's and dont's ^^ |
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Post by no3Ljm on May 13, 2008 11:18:29 GMT 8
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Post by bryan1216 on May 13, 2008 17:15:54 GMT 8
Thanks, that site is great ^^
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Post by RainerO on May 13, 2008 17:27:12 GMT 8
Nice link you got there sir, thx.  But it really takes time & money in order to achieve the best result in a gunpla kit/model. |
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Post by RainerO on May 14, 2008 10:43:36 GMT 8
And other thing, that some people (including myself sometimes) that we're itching to get the kit done (straight build) w/o following the guidelines mentioned on that site.
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Post by no3Ljm on May 14, 2008 12:51:18 GMT 8
yup. same here too.  so what i just do is 'widen' the female peg connector hole so that i can disassemble it easily and paint it afterwards.
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Post by bryan1216 on May 14, 2008 16:48:36 GMT 8
Aww widen the female peg??? Isn't it much better to cut the male pegs shorter so that it wont loose so much??
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Post by no3Ljm on May 16, 2008 1:57:05 GMT 8
it's ok to use that too, bro. i remember doing the same thing before. but i prefer to widen the female connectors. i think it will depend on everyone's preferences. and in the end, you will still glue them together, right?
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arravan
SD Gashapon Super Robot
Posts: 20
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Post by arravan on Aug 25, 2008 16:08:02 GMT 8
One smal question.
My gundam panel marker (GM01) has a split end. Does this really happen over time or was it because of me putting the wrong cap on it?
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Was just thinking about possibly skipping a step to make my production much faster. ;D
