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Post by crufodiang on Dec 11, 2008 2:08:44 GMT 8
pano ba mag lagay ng very thin panel lines? what techniques do you guys and gals(if any) use?
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Post by tagabukid on Dec 11, 2008 18:19:24 GMT 8
pano ba mag lagay ng very thin panel lines? what techniques do you guys and gals(if any) use? panel wash is the definite way to go if you intend very thin panel lines  |
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Post by crufodiang on Dec 13, 2008 1:27:08 GMT 8
pano ba mag lagay ng very thin panel lines? what techniques do you guys and gals(if any) use? panel wash is the definite way to go if you intend very thin panel lines hi! im new at this kind of hobby (modeling kits) and i have a number of questions. i have 6 gundams already, all 1/100 (strike freedom, destiny, aegis, ew d-hell, ew nataku and ew sandrock) when i bought them (strike freedom, destiny and ew d-hell) i just assembled them. the rest i tried putting panel lines (panel lines muna because for now i dont have the skills to paint...shaky hands). i both gundam markers from lils @ glorieta. i use the gm01 black g-marker in all of my panel lines (akthough i use 70%alcohol to remove the excess ink but makapal pa din). my questions are as follows: 1. is it ok if i dont put any topcoat or protective paint over the panel lines? i mean hindi naman yun mabubura? 2. if i use the wash technique(since you its been suggested to use wash for thin panel lines), do i have to put a top coat or protective paint or is it ok na hindi na? 3. i always use black as color for my panel lines. is there any suggestion that you guys can give in any other possible color combination for panel lines. i mean for what color of panel lines should i use for light colored and dark colored plastic. ( i hope this make sense). 4. and probably the most important thing, next week im planning to buy a mg endlesswaltz wing zero gundam(or any other mg type as long as it is gundam seed or wing series. offcourse sa GT ). i want to paint the inner frame (skeleton structure) with gold(like gold plated) or metallic or stainless steel effect. how do i do this? is it ok that i use the gundam markers na kulay gold or silver (if i can find one next week) or you can just achieve this by only using paints (for now pang marker lang ako). later na lang yung ibang questions if any comes to mind. thank you so very very much in advance. you guys are really a big help for as newbies. |
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Post by tagabukid on Dec 15, 2008 17:36:28 GMT 8
panel wash is the definite way to go if you intend very thin panel lines hi! im new at this kind of hobby (modeling kits) and i have a number of questions. i have 6 gundams already, all 1/100 (strike freedom, destiny, aegis, ew d-hell, ew nataku and ew sandrock) when i bought them (strike freedom, destiny and ew d-hell) i just assembled them. the rest i tried putting panel lines (panel lines muna because for now i dont have the skills to paint...shaky hands). i both gundam markers from lils @ glorieta. i use the gm01 black g-marker in all of my panel lines (akthough i use 70%alcohol to remove the excess ink but makapal pa din). my questions are as follows: 1. is it ok if i dont put any topcoat or protective paint over the panel lines? i mean hindi naman yun mabubura? 2. if i use the wash technique(since you its been suggested to use wash for thin panel lines), do i have to put a top coat or protective paint or is it ok na hindi na? 3. i always use black as color for my panel lines. is there any suggestion that you guys can give in any other possible color combination for panel lines. i mean for what color of panel lines should i use for light colored and dark colored plastic. ( i hope this make sense). 4. and probably the most important thing, next week im planning to buy a mg endlesswaltz wing zero gundam(or any other mg type as long as it is gundam seed or wing series. offcourse sa GT ). i want to paint the inner frame (skeleton structure) with gold(like gold plated) or metallic or stainless steel effect. how do i do this? is it ok that i use the gundam markers na kulay gold or silver (if i can find one next week) or you can just achieve this by only using paints (for now pang marker lang ako). later na lang yung ibang questions if any comes to mind. thank you so very very much in advance. you guys are really a big help for as newbies. now you're taking that extra step in building your kit, allow me to encourage you more to the best that i can! ;D my responses: 1. if you apply panel line "AS IS" to your kits, tendency is it "may" fade overtime especially when the kit will be reposed over and over again... top coat it for protection... 2. as long as the surface is gloss in order to allow capillary action to successfully take place, there's no need to put a gloss top coat... but do so AFTER the panel wash, again, for protection... 3. yes of course, if you're going the panel wash route, almost all colors offered in bottles can be used... PERSONALLY, for white armors, light-medium gray is advised; for red, maroon; for blue, black, and so on... just don't be afraid to experiment.. 4. easy route is spray can, look for metallic gold color... don't forget to apply primer, though (optional, yet advisable)... metallic, again, look for metallic colors, of course... gundam markers are only good for adding accents/details but not advisable as paint substitute... hope this helps... |
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Post by crufodiang on Dec 16, 2008 2:45:36 GMT 8
hi! thanks for the help. i was able to buy last sat (ahead of sched.) a akatsuki gundam (00washi and shiranui full pack) and a gundam wing ver.ka mg both 1/100 (GT dont have the stock of ew wing 0)  . i was also able to buy some gundam markers(1 set) with a gold marker included. i also bought some TAMIYA Acrylic paints(ung nasa bote) sa lils glorieta. when i ask the lady there(i think shes the owner if not the manager) about glossy finish and flat finish, she said that it is the top coat and she showed me a sparycan that cost P550. i think its taller than a can of sftdrink. too expensive pala. i expected more from the price kaya d ko n lang binili. my question about top coat is this: 1. is there a liquid version of this for me to just brush it on my gundams? if not, 2. is there other brand that you can suggest for top coat cheaper than TAMIYA? and where can i buy it? 3. if ever there is no other brand, and if i bought the P550 TAMIYA spraycan how many gundams can it top coat before it runs-out? 4. when i asked the lady about glossy finish and flat finish, she said that it is the top coat and she showed me ONE sparycan. so is it glossy finish and flat finish the same or I mean you can get it in one can and it only differs on how you spray the spraycan(im a lil bit confused about that  ). i dont have any background in painting so i dont know this stuff. about the TAMIYA Acrylic paints(ung nasa bote):for now im just planning to brush paint my gundams. 1. so i just deep my brush to the bottle and brush away or i have to mix it with something first. about primer: 1. what color for pirmer should i use? and is it ok for me just to put the primer direct to the colored plastic Im planning to start with the akatsuki first and since i have already bought some TAMIYA Acrylic paints(ung nasa bote) last sat @ lils, and since i only manage to grab a "GOLD LEAF" color not the "METALLIC GOLD"(i dont know if they have it in bottle), i found this on the net just a few moments ago. a formula for gold platting: silver, clear yellow and a bit of gold. 1. so how do i do this? how much amounts do i have to put from each of the colors to achieve the gold platting. 2. for silver i have the "FLAT ALUMINUM", for clear yellow i have "FLAT YELLOW" and for gold i have "GOLD LEAF". will this work? is clear yellow and flat yellow are two different shades of yellow? i am not familiar with color names. i am not planning to paint my akatsuki(for now) but i need to achieve the gold plated effect to cover the part where i cut the plastic from the sprue. it is showing the color of the back of the plastic which is silver or aluminum. and is there anyone here that has the translation(from Japs. to Eng.) of the color codes for akatsuki. after i assemble my akatsuki i will start on my gundam wing ver.ka mg, this one i will repaint it. i like it to be flat finish(or not glossy like plastic). well thats another set of questions. hehehehe. thank you very very much for the help, suggestions, advice, etc... |
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Post by tagabukid on Dec 16, 2008 12:48:08 GMT 8
hi! thanks for the help. i was able to buy last sat (ahead of sched.) a akatsuki gundam (00washi and shiranui full pack) and a gundam wing ver.ka mg both 1/100 (GT dont have the stock of ew wing 0) . i was also able to buy some gundam markers(1 set) with a gold marker included. i also bought some TAMIYA Acrylic paints(ung nasa bote) sa lils glorieta. when i ask the lady there(i think shes the owner if not the manager) about glossy finish and flat finish, she said that it is the top coat and she showed me a sparycan that cost P550. i think its taller than a can of sftdrink. too expensive pala. i expected more from the price kaya d ko n lang binili. my question about top coat is this: 1. is there a liquid version of this for me to just brush it on my gundams? if not, 2. is there other brand that you can suggest for top coat cheaper than TAMIYA? and where can i buy it? 3. if ever there is no other brand, and if i bought the P550 TAMIYA spraycan how many gundams can it top coat before it runs-out? 4. when i asked the lady about glossy finish and flat finish, she said that it is the top coat and she showed me ONE sparycan. so is it glossy finish and flat finish the same or I mean you can get it in one can and it only differs on how you spray the spraycan(im a lil bit confused about that ). i dont have any background in painting so i dont know this stuff. about the TAMIYA Acrylic paints(ung nasa bote):for now im just planning to brush paint my gundams. 1. so i just deep my brush to the bottle and brush away or i have to mix it with something first. about primer: 1. what color for pirmer should i use? and is it ok for me just to put the primer direct to the colored plastic Im planning to start with the akatsuki first and since i have already bought some TAMIYA Acrylic paints(ung nasa bote) last sat @ lils, and since i only manage to grab a "GOLD LEAF" color not the "METALLIC GOLD"(i dont know if they have it in bottle), i found this on the net just a few moments ago. a formula for gold platting: silver, clear yellow and a bit of gold. 1. so how do i do this? how much amounts do i have to put from each of the colors to achieve the gold platting. 2. for silver i have the "FLAT ALUMINUM", for clear yellow i have "FLAT YELLOW" and for gold i have "GOLD LEAF". will this work? is clear yellow and flat yellow are two different shades of yellow? i am not familiar with color names. i am not planning to paint my akatsuki(for now) but i need to achieve the gold plated effect to cover the part where i cut the plastic from the sprue. it is showing the color of the back of the plastic which is silver or aluminum. and is there anyone here that has the translation(from Japs. to Eng.) of the color codes for akatsuki. after i assemble my akatsuki i will start on my gundam wing ver.ka mg, this one i will repaint it. i like it to be flat finish(or not glossy like plastic). well thats another set of questions. hehehehe. thank you very very much for the help, suggestions, advice, etc... 1. yes, also available in tamiya bottles... it's called base or something like that, can't remember LOL 2. industrial spray can is the way to go... a cheap alternative... tested brands are bosny/rj and pylox... offerings are clear (semi-gloss) and flat clear... price plays around < PhP150 for 200cc, good for 2 MGs... allow me to share my cans...  the plastic primer, dark blue and clear are industrial ones... not just waaaay cheaper than tamiya's but can also cover more than one MG... 3. not sure, as i've not yet bought one (because of price:content concerns) 4. gloss and flat CAN and WILL NEVER be the same... microscopically, gloss gives a "mirror" surface (smooth) to reflect light (hence, glossy) while flat gives "manila road" ( lubak-lubak LOL) surface to trap light (hence, dull-y)... usually, if the can is not labelled "FLAT", it is either just CLEAR or SEMI-GLOSS... 4a. What's the difference between "just" CLEAR and GLOSS/FLAT? flat clear, as explained above, eliminates the gloss of the kit, whereas clear simply serves as an "invisible coat" to the top coat... just that, plainly clear... confused? say for example, you've painted your kit a metallic shade... the dried paint will obviously result to a glossy finish... when you applied coat of FLAT clear paint, the end result will eliminate the gloss, overriding the metallic effect... for the CLEAR example, say you've painted ANOTHER kit with the same metallic shade... the dried paint will obviously result to a glossy finish... so when you apply a coat of clear paint, the effect will be hardly noticeable as the clear paint is, just that, clear... just a protective layer, so to speak... but... if you've painted a kit with FLAT black finish then you gave it a FLAT clear coat... so the end result is - obviously - flat colors... now, another kit was painted with FLAT black finish and applied CLEAR coat... the end result will still be FLAT black... stilll confused? here's basically the equation: a. GLOSS PAINT (metallic, etc.) + FLAT TOP COAT = FLAT colors, metallic/gloss discarded b. GLOSS PAINT (metallic, etc.) + SEMI-GLOSS TOP COAT= SEMI-GLOSS to GLOSS c. GLOSS PAINT (metallic, etc.) + GLOSS TOP COAT = SHOWROOM FINISH (esp. when applied with rubbing compound after paint totally cured) d. GLOSS PAINT (metallic, etc.) + CLEAR TOP COAT = AS IS (invisible coat) e. FLAT PAINT + FLAT TOP COAT = FLAT f. FLAT PAINT + SEMI-GLOSS TOP COAT = SEMI-GLOSS g. FLAT PAINT + GLOSS TOP COAT = GLOSS h. FLAT PAINT + CLEAR = AS IS (invisible coat) oOo 1. do NOT just dip your brush and be stroke-happy else you'll end up ruining your kit... use thinner (water can be used for acrylics since these paints are water-based)... usual ratio is 60:40 (paint:thinner) but that depends on what you're trying to achieve (different ratio for panel wash, wash technique, etc) oOo 1. am also using gold leaf to deviate from the usual "plastic" yellow OOB... same approach, pour sufficient amount of acrylic in a container, thin with water, and color away... don't forget to thoroughly mix the paint before thinning it... this is the result of my gold leaf attack...  2. clear yellow is, uhm, CLEAR... like you can see through it... most CLEAR with color are intended for clear parts... example: eyes. the eyes usually are colored green, correct? eyes of the mecha's, not us humans, of course... by default foil stickers are supplied, and that covers the eyes... but if you want your kit to kind of look realistic, you'll want to paint the eyes instead of the foil sticker... if you color the eye FLAT green, not only it would look funny but it will also be impossible for the paint to "cling" to the clear part... that's where CLEAR green comes in... paint the back side Silver and the front side clear green and you'll have an astig-looking eyes... there are other uses of clear paints, like giving "flame"-like effect but that's another topic to tackle... hope this helps... looking forward to that wing verKA... by the way, i suggest you visit my thread ( greattoysonline.proboards43.com/index.cgi?board=gundamtoys&action=display&thread=4724), you may begin at page 2 as i've shared most of my painting works there... |
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Post by Gane on Dec 16, 2008 12:53:50 GMT 8
hi! thanks for the help. i was able to buy last sat (ahead of sched.) a akatsuki gundam (00washi and shiranui full pack) and a gundam wing ver.ka mg both 1/100 (GT dont have the stock of ew wing 0) . i was also able to buy some gundam markers(1 set) with a gold marker included. i also bought some TAMIYA Acrylic paints(ung nasa bote) sa lils glorieta. when i ask the lady there(i think shes the owner if not the manager) about glossy finish and flat finish, she said that it is the top coat and she showed me a sparycan that cost P550. i think its taller than a can of sftdrink. too expensive pala. i expected more from the price kaya d ko n lang binili. my question about top coat is this: 1. is there a liquid version of this for me to just brush it on my gundams? if not, 2. is there other brand that you can suggest for top coat cheaper than TAMIYA? and where can i buy it? 3. if ever there is no other brand, and if i bought the P550 TAMIYA spraycan how many gundams can it top coat before it runs-out? 4. when i asked the lady about glossy finish and flat finish, she said that it is the top coat and she showed me ONE sparycan. so is it glossy finish and flat finish the same or I mean you can get it in one can and it only differs on how you spray the spraycan(im a lil bit confused about that ). i dont have any background in painting so i dont know this stuff. about the TAMIYA Acrylic paints(ung nasa bote):for now im just planning to brush paint my gundams. 1. so i just deep my brush to the bottle and brush away or i have to mix it with something first. about primer: 1. what color for pirmer should i use? and is it ok for me just to put the primer direct to the colored plastic Im planning to start with the akatsuki first and since i have already bought some TAMIYA Acrylic paints(ung nasa bote) last sat @ lils, and since i only manage to grab a "GOLD LEAF" color not the "METALLIC GOLD"(i dont know if they have it in bottle), i found this on the net just a few moments ago. a formula for gold platting: silver, clear yellow and a bit of gold. 1. so how do i do this? how much amounts do i have to put from each of the colors to achieve the gold platting. 2. for silver i have the "FLAT ALUMINUM", for clear yellow i have "FLAT YELLOW" and for gold i have "GOLD LEAF". will this work? is clear yellow and flat yellow are two different shades of yellow? i am not familiar with color names. i am not planning to paint my akatsuki(for now) but i need to achieve the gold plated effect to cover the part where i cut the plastic from the sprue. it is showing the color of the back of the plastic which is silver or aluminum. and is there anyone here that has the translation(from Japs. to Eng.) of the color codes for akatsuki. after i assemble my akatsuki i will start on my gundam wing ver.ka mg, this one i will repaint it. i like it to be flat finish(or not glossy like plastic). well thats another set of questions. hehehehe. thank you very very much for the help, suggestions, advice, etc... Just a follow up IMO:  1. Most Tamiya paints have a bottled Acrylic or Enamel versions and sometimes more so than the spraycan. Enamels and Acrylics need thinner, but acrylics can be diluted with alcohol. I'm not really into acrylics because it dries too fast to cover a big part properly. 2. Check your hardware store for spray paints, you can get the specific type there too like acrylic, epoxy and enamels. And most will come less than 200 petot and on the big can as well. Some technique shortcuts are used with these spray paints like pearl or metallic finish. 3. I don't know about the Tamiya brand but I once used a small Mr. Hobby Top Coat small spraycan and it was good for 2 - 2 1/2 1/100 kits. Just for top coating and depends on how you apply. 4. She probably means the way you handle the spray can when spraying, too close and it will be glossy and too far it will dry before it touches the plastic thus having a matte effect. You can however get a flat spray paint at a fraction of the price as I mentioned in #2. It is however not an easy item to find just like the super clear spray paint that doesn't yellow on plain white backing. Copying a Gold metallic finish is a bigger task than you can imagine. The tip was correct with silver, clear yellow and gold but the trick to achieving it properly is daunting. Simply using paints don't work the same, sometimes the topcoat will interfere with the chrome finish (if you do get to achieve this level) and the work has gone to waste. As far as I'm concerned the best metallic paint you can brush that I have ever used are from Testors, but I don't think you can easily find the brand (or the right finish) other than in Special Toy Center... Gold plating on your Gundam is not easy to copy so I would suggest the gold chrome spray paint if you really want the same effect. Or you can use the foiling technique since you only want to cover those tiny parts from removing the sprues. For foil technique check out the hobby store next to TK Megamall. Believe me the gold foil really stands out over any gold leaf paint. Based on some photos in Dalong, Akatsuki is Gold Plated so I can only suggest both spray paint and foil techniques. True chrome technique will need some fine sanding foam, top coat, silver powder, and a lot of luck. This is repetitive up to 2-3 coats of silver powder, top coat and sanding, then finally gold powder, top coat and sanding, then topcoat and sanding until a good finish is achieved. If you have enough patience this is a very good technique that lasts longer than any paint or spray paint you can buy. As instructed in an old copy of Fine Scale Modeler magazine. Good Luck though... |
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Post by crufodiang on Dec 17, 2008 23:22:23 GMT 8
thank you for all your help guys. i really appreciate it. i didn't know painting a gundam kit will be to much work. and to be honest i lack patience so i guess i need to practice my patience first. hehehehe ;D i still have some very noob questions. @ tagabukidph1. yes, also available in tamiya bottles... it's called base or something like that, can't remember LOL that's great! but do i also have to mix it with thinner or water or its ok just to deep my brush and paint away?and is this also apply to the top coat? 2. industrial spray can is the way to go... a cheap alternative... tested brands are bosny/rj and pylox... offerings are clear (semi-gloss) and flat clear... price plays around < PhP150 for 200cc, good for 2 MGs... the plastic primer, dark blue and clear are industrial ones... not just waaaay cheaper than tamiya's but can also cover more than one MG... can i buy this brand at the malls? like in sm megamall, i believe there is like a hardware store there(forgot the name though). say for example, you've painted your kit a metallic shade... the dried paint will obviously result to a glossy finish... what about just the plain colors (not metallic ones), when the paint dried will it also be glossy or i still need to brush glossy top coat to make it glossy(i am sorry 'bout this, i really sound stupid with this question). c. GLOSS PAINT (metallic, etc.) + GLOSS TOP COAT = SHOWROOM FINISH (esp. when applied with rubbing compound after paint totally cured) what kind of "rubbing compound" do you mean? 1. am also using gold leaf to deviate from the usual "plastic" yellow OOB... same approach, pour sufficient amount of acrylic in a container, thin with water, and color away... don't forget to thoroughly mix the paint before thinning it... so that's the gold leaf color. very nince! but i think i'll add more yellow to it to make more lighter(close to akatsuki's gold plated color). eyes. the eyes usually are colored green, correct? eyes of the mecha's, not us humans, of course... by default foil stickers are supplied, and that covers the eyes... but if you want your kit to kind of look realistic, you'll want to paint the eyes instead of the foil sticker... if you color the eye FLAT green, not only it would look funny but it will also be impossible for the paint to "cling" to the clear part... that's where CLEAR green comes in... paint the back side Silver and the front side clear green and you'll have an astig-looking eyes... before i left the house for work this evening, i notcied that the eyes of akatsuki is NOT transparent(maroon color). i guess i have to stick with the stickers. i also saw your mecha farm. WOW!!!(jaw dropping, jaw breaking experience!) and i really mean WOW!!! you even detailed both heeros. ako naduduling na just looking at my tiny heeros. i wish i can also have your skills in detailing gundams. the thing that you used to panel line your ver.ka, is that a marker? what brand(it doesn't look like any gundam marker i know of) and where can i buy it? @ genjiMost Tamiya paints have a bottled Acrylic or Enamel versions and sometimes more so than the spraycan. Enamels and Acrylics need thinner, but acrylics can be diluted with alcohol. I'm not really into acrylics because it dries too fast to cover a big part properly. i have two bottle of alcohols @ home, one is 40% and the other is 70% isopropyl alcohol. is this ok?(i hope its not 100% IPA because its hard to come by). I don't know about the Tamiya brand but I once used a small Mr. Hobby Top Coat small spraycan and it was good for 2 - 2 1/2 1/100 kits. Just for top coating and depends on how you apply. where can i buy mr. hobby? She probably means the way you handle the spray can when spraying, too close and it will be glossy and too far it will dry before it touches the plastic thus having a matte effect. You can however get a flat spray paint at a fraction of the price as I mentioned in #2. It is however not an easy item to find just like the super clear spray paint that doesn't yellow on plain white backing. sorry for asking but what is a matte effect? sorry i really don't know this kind of stuff(painting). As far as I'm concerned the best metallic paint you can brush that I have ever used are from Testors, but I don't think you can easily find the brand (or the right finish) other than in Special Toy Center... that's the one in viramall, and somewhere in cubao right? but is there a branch of STC here in makati? Based on some photos in Dalong, Akatsuki is Gold Plated so I can only suggest both spray paint and foil techniques. the foil, is it a sticker or just an ordinary foil that i need to brush glue with it? and what type or brand of glue do you recommend? i have elmers glue @ home but i don't know if that's ok to use with gundam kit, is it? i also read about sanding tingy. do i really need to sand the parts first before putting the primer or is it ok na hindi na(just brush/spray the primer direct to the gundam plastic)? once again thank you so much guys... errr.... masters for your help ;D |
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Post by tagabukid on Dec 19, 2008 12:49:46 GMT 8
responses in blue: thank you for all your help guys. i really appreciate it. i didn't know painting a gundam kit will be to much work. and to be honest i lack patience so i guess i need to practice my patience first. hehehehe ;D i still have some very noob questions. @ tagabukidph1. yes, also available in tamiya bottles... it's called base or something like that, can't remember LOL that's great! but do i also have to mix it with thinner or water or its ok just to deep my brush and paint away?and is this also apply to the top coat? best practice is to thin paints it before the application...can i buy this brand at the malls? like in sm megamall, i believe there is like a hardware store there(forgot the name though). yes they're available at your local hardware stores... though handyman is a bit cheaper than ace's...color]
what about just the plain colors (not metallic ones), when the paint dried will it also be glossy or i still need to brush glossy top coat to make it glossy(i am sorry 'bout this, i really sound stupid with this question).
it'll be semi-gloss finish... flat colors are labelled with FLAT and gloss finish either GLOSS or METALLIC...
what kind of "rubbing compound" do you mean?
the one used to buff surfaces necessitating smooth finish (car, for example)...
so that's the gold leaf color. very nince! but i think i'll add more yellow to it to make more lighter(close to akatsuki's gold plated color).
you may experiment gold leaf + clear yellow on a spare sprue...
before i left the house for work this evening, i notcied that the eyes of akatsuki is NOT transparent(maroon color). i guess i have to stick with the stickers.
i also saw your mecha farm. WOW!!!(jaw dropping, jaw breaking experience!) and i really mean WOW!!! you even detailed both heeros. ako naduduling na just looking at my tiny heeros. i wish i can also have your skills in detailing gundams.
thanks, hope you'll watch out for my next project after the verKA ;D
the thing that you used to panel line your ver.ka, is that a marker? what brand(it doesn't look like any gundam marker i know of) and where can i buy it?
it's the ordinary gel pen from dong-a (available at nbs), colored metallic gold... just being resourceful  |
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Post by Gane on Dec 19, 2008 14:37:46 GMT 8
@ genjii have two bottle of alcohols @ home, one is 40% and the other is 70% isopropyl alcohol. is this ok?(i hope its not 100% IPA because its hard to come by). where can i buy mr. hobby? sorry for asking but what is a matte effect? sorry i really don't know this kind of stuff(painting). that's the one in viramall, and somewhere in cubao right? but is there a branch of STC here in makati? Based on some photos in Dalong, Akatsuki is Gold Plated so I can only suggest both spray paint and foil techniques. the foil, is it a sticker or just an ordinary foil that i need to brush glue with it? and what type or brand of glue do you recommend? i have elmers glue @ home but i don't know if that's ok to use with gundam kit, is it? i also read about sanding tingy. do i really need to sand the parts first before putting the primer or is it ok na hindi na(just brush/spray the primer direct to the gundam plastic)? once again thank you so much guys... errr.... masters for your help ;D Before I proceed... for a cheaper gold finish you can get a Gold Permanent Marker (similar to any big permanent markers) in NBS which you only have to shake for the paint to come out of the nib/tip. You can apply this using brush and thinner or just use the marker as is. It's not glossy or have a metallic gold finish but you get the same effect as that seen in Tagabukid's pics. This permanent marker is available in Gold and Silver... But it doesn't react well with top coating... it becomes dull... I don't really have enough experience with Acrylics but it was suggested when I was a newbie in Finescale Modeler Forum. Both should be fine I suppose but you can use water if you want to be on the safe side of things. (100% is available in Medical Supply shops but I don't know if you can get it over the counter) Mr. Hobby is a brand from the maker Gunze Sangyo (unless I'm mixing my companies again ;D) so it should be available in Lil's Hobby or STC. I believe STC is available in Ali Mall in Cubao, VMall in Greenhills and somewhere in Sta. Cruz Manila(never been there yet). I don't think they have a store in Makati... but you can always check Lil's there... I believe the matte effect is closely resemlbing the frosted effect on glass... it makes the surface finish feel flat or sanded. Okay the foil technique uses a different glue which you have to let dry for a few minutes depending on how large an area you want to cover. When it already feels sticky, since it looks and feels like paste but not sticky, you need to press the foil on the area. Removing the plastic backing and you have a metallic finish (various foil colors are available) over your material. For more ideas of this matter check out the scrapbooking shop beside TK megamall...Sanding before applying primer depends on the plastic. You don't really need sanding but you will need to remove the mold parting oils used in molding the plastic with dish washing soap and water. Sometime it doesn't work because some plastics are too glossy to accept primer from spray paints so you need to sand it a bit to allow the primer to stick to the plastic and not having it rubbed off to your touch. In the end what you want is the plastic being covered by the color of your primer specially when it's a dark color like blue, black, etc. And for those who need to cover red plastic with white paint, like the ones for 1/100 Wing Gundam kits, applying primer on the specific areas will avoid bleeding from the red pigment. |
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Post by tagabukid on Dec 19, 2008 15:48:13 GMT 8
boss Genji, i believe you're referring to alcohol here as thinner? sooo that explains why my eyes have dried yet all i can see at the supermarket shelves are 70% solution at most ;D
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Post by Gane on Dec 22, 2008 12:35:34 GMT 8
boss Genji, i believe you're referring to alcohol here as thinner? sooo that explains why my eyes have dried yet all i can see at the supermarket shelves are 70% solution at most ;D Yup, I don't really use acrylic now since I had bad results (thus I sold my set of paints) with wash technique and brush strokes, however I would prefer it over enamels if I do get an airbrush since it's easier to clean up. I don't know if Mercury Drug supply it but you can ask them... ;D |
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Post by crufodiang on Dec 23, 2008 1:39:11 GMT 8
thanks for the help mga masters. ok, for what i have learned from you masters so far is this: (you can correct me if wrong with this) for glossy finish 1. wash all parts using dish washing soap/detergent and water then dry 2. sanding (what type or grade should i use?) 3. primer (most likely gray) 4. (should i put glossy coat after the primer or not?) 5. color via spray/brush 6. clear glossy coat for panel lines 7. panel lines using wash technique 8. clear glossy coat 9. decals 10. final clear glossy coat/finish for flat coat finish 1. wash all parts using dish washing soap/detergent and water then dry 2. sanding (what type or grade should i use?) 3. primer (most likely gray) 4. (should i put flat coat after the primer or not?) 5. color via spray/brush 6. clear glossy coat for panel lines 7. panel lines using wash technique 8. clear flat coat 9. decals 10. final clear flat coat/finish am i right about this? and is there really a 0.005 pigma micron by sakura(for panel lines)? i look for it in NBS here in glorieta and the sales lady there doesn't know about it. oh and one thing. its about simco brand. i saw it in NBS. its acrylic-water base. is this ok to use for gundam plastic? again thanks for the help guys. |
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Post by qb on Dec 23, 2008 3:05:48 GMT 8
this is already a bit OT but just to add some inputs:
for sanding, you can use a 400 grit initially to sand down nubs and then just refine the part with a 1000 grit.
you don't need to put any coats after priming the kit, bro. the coats come after you've applied the colored paint.
for the flat finish, here're the final steps:
8. clear gloss coat
9. decals
10. final flat coat/finish.
you still need to apply a gloss coat before the decals so that they don't stand out on the part. some decals still have those clear parts that stick out after applying so applying the flat coat on them will just make them stand out more which is what you're trying to avoid. they need to look as natural as possible on the kit so gloss coat first before final flat coat.
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Post by tagabukid on Dec 23, 2008 12:36:40 GMT 8
thanks for the help mga masters. ok, for what i have learned from you masters so far is this: (you can correct me if wrong with this) for glossy finish 1. wash all parts using dish washing soap/detergent and water then dry 2. sanding (what type or grade should i use?) Grit 400-600 to eliminate flashes, Grit 1000-1200 to smoothen3. primer (most likely gray) But if you intend to coat white for base, use white primer ;D4. (should i put glossy coat after the primer or not?)5. color via spray/brush 6. clear glossy coat for panel lines 7. panel lines using wash technique 8. clear glossy coat 9. decals 10. final clear glossy coat/finish for flat coat finish 1. wash all parts using dish washing soap/detergent and water then dry 2. sanding (what type or grade should i use?) ^3. primer (most likely gray) ^4. (should i put flat coat after the primer or not?)5. color via spray/brush 6. clear glossy coat for panel lines 7. panel lines using wash technique 8. clear flat coat 9. decals 10. final clear flat coat/finish am i right about this? and is there really a 0.005 pigma micron by sakura(for panel lines)? i look for it in NBS here in glorieta and the sales lady there doesn't know about it. oh and one thing. its about simco brand. i saw it in NBS. its acrylic-water base. is this ok to use for gundam plastic? again thanks for the help guys. i believe you've not yet grasped the principle behind priming that's why you're confused as to whether gloss coat should be applied or not... primers aid in making the base paint adhere better and in the long run, make the paint sturdy... aside from that, primer helps you spot uneven surface (e.g.: cured seams) so you can further conduct appropriate work for this without ruining the base paint... primer is not to be protected, thus no need for top coat... boss qb's suggestion is a highly recommended one... now that we've poured our help, we'll look forward to your future posts and colored kits! ;D |
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. i was also able to buy some gundam markers(1 set) with a gold marker included. i also bought some TAMIYA Acrylic paints(ung nasa bote) sa lils glorieta. when i ask the lady there(i think shes the owner if not the manager) about glossy finish and flat finish, she said that it is the top coat and she showed me a sparycan that cost P550. i think its taller than a can of sftdrink. too expensive pala. i expected more from the price kaya d ko n lang binili. my question about top coat is this:
). i dont have any background in painting so i dont know this stuff.
Jun 6, 2013 3:45:32 GMT 8
keeping the site active as a place to dump info for easier backtracking. 
keeping the site active as a place to dump info for easier backtracking. 
May 30, 2015 3:32:15 GMT 8
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