|
|
Post by no3Ljm on Aug 22, 2006 1:19:17 GMT 8
|
|
|
|
Post by delta408 on Aug 22, 2006 23:22:24 GMT 8
excellent articles.  definitely a must-try kit building experience. |
|
|
|
Post by christine_03 on Aug 23, 2006 12:39:58 GMT 8
yeah. i prefer the gundams in their original color scheme too. but hard part is the seam lines. just how hard is that, without painting..hmmm
|
|
neodark
DX Gashapon Super Robot
Posts: 239
|
Post by neodark on Aug 28, 2006 0:52:17 GMT 8
What id like to know is how did they remove the sanding scratches w/o paint.. i dont entirely seem to understand that guide since the english captions are like 1 or just 2 liners.. for removing seamlines using the plastic cement + sharp razor is perfectly understandable, but on those nubs that need to be sand and having it back to its normal color is what i dont understand how to do.
|
|
|
|
Post by no3Ljm on Aug 28, 2006 19:52:10 GMT 8
i think the oil from our fingertips help in removing the small marks that left from cutting the sprues. just be sure to wipe it afterwards so the oil is removed. that's based on the images i see on the dannychoo site. i think you have to use the ultra-high grit papers. above 1000grits? or after you're done sanding try to wipe it with damp cloth, check if the sanding is gone? or my best bet is... flat topcoat does help on removing the sanding area ala-optical illusion. 'now you see them, now you don't.'
just to be on the safe side... why not try it on sprues or parts that you don't need. 
|
|
|
|
Post by christine_03 on Aug 29, 2006 12:40:45 GMT 8
try using the 1800 grit. that should work... and i agree with using flat topcoat. it will hide the sanded part. it would even out most of the color. you wont notice it that much. just dont sand too much. to minimize the scars. i think the oil from our fingertips help in removing the small marks that left from cutting the sprues. just be sure to wipe it afterwards so the oil is removed. that's based on the images i see on the dannychoo site. i think you have to use the ultra-high grit papers. above 1000grits? or after you're done sanding try to wipe it with damp cloth, check if the sanding is gone? or my best bet is... flat topcoat does help on removing the sanding area ala-optical illusion. 'now you see them, now you don't.'
just to be on the safe side... why not try it on sprues or parts that you don't need.
|
|
|
|
Post by qb on Aug 29, 2006 20:19:50 GMT 8
when you say flat topcaot, do you mean using a flat clear paint on the sanded area?
|
|
|
|
Post by no3Ljm on Aug 29, 2006 22:52:57 GMT 8
when you say flat topcaot, do you mean using a flat clear paint on the sanded area?
ok. back to the question. based on the no-paint technique feature posted by dannychoo. he just uses topcoat on the sanded area. flat topcoats can even the sanded area with the 'flat mist residue' that comes with the coat. if you'll notice, if you use flat topcoats, you can see that the plastic or painted kits color change into more whitey-feel. that's because of the flat mist residue (tama ba term ko?). so if you sanded some area, clean it with damp cloth, and spray it with topcoats... i think IMO the sanded area will not be visible.
sorry if ever magulo yung explanation ko. hope someone can explain it more on the topcoat effect on sanded areas.
|
|
neodark
DX Gashapon Super Robot
Posts: 239
|
Post by neodark on Aug 30, 2006 5:40:37 GMT 8
so what type of top coat should i get in Tamiya or hardware stores? any specific brand in mind ?
i only have a 1,000 grit sand paper here gonna look for 1,800 or 2,000
thanks for all the input but id still like to know about this.. specifically from cebu modders
|
|
|
|
Post by qb on Aug 30, 2006 6:36:06 GMT 8
@ no3ljm i believe you can buy flat clear paint. i'm not sure which brand i bought. so what i did was use a 1000 grit on my 1/144 destiny to even out the surface and then sprayed it with flat clear paint. it made the plastic more "natural" looking and removed all the scratch marks done by the sanding. i'll try to get the brand when i get home. hope this helps! thanks! |
|
|
|
Post by itemtracer on Aug 30, 2006 6:59:09 GMT 8
i think the oil from our fingertips help in removing the small marks that left from cutting the sprues. just be sure to wipe it afterwards so the oil is removed. that's based on the images i see on the dannychoo site. i think you have to use the ultra-high grit papers. above 1000grits? or after you're done sanding try to wipe it with damp cloth, check if the sanding is gone? or my best bet is... flat topcoat does help on removing the sanding area ala-optical illusion. 'now you see them, now you don't.'
just to be on the safe side... why not try it on sprues or parts that you don't need.
A slight correction... (It's not about the oil from our fingertips)The little picture shows the guy using the tip of his fingernail to feel if there's a small nub left on the part that was cut/sanded (Also, You can use the tip of your fingernail to remove the white discoloration of the cut nub). Also, sanding removes the plastic shine on the parts. Spraying the parts with topcoat also decreases the parts' "plastic" look. |
|
|
|
Post by itemtracer on Aug 30, 2006 7:29:33 GMT 8
when you say flat topcaot, do you mean using a flat clear paint on the sanded area?
ok. back to the question. based on the no-paint technique feature posted by dannychoo. he just uses topcoat on the sanded area. flat topcoats can even the sanded area with the 'flat mist residue' that comes with the coat. if you'll notice, if you use flat topcoats, you can see that the plastic or painted kits color change into more whitey-feel. that's because of the flat mist residue (tama ba term ko?). so if you sanded some area, clean it with damp cloth, and spray it with topcoats... i think IMO the sanded area will not be visible.
sorry if ever magulo yung explanation ko. hope someone can explain it more on the topcoat effect on sanded areas.
Clarification: Flat topcoats are clear, they don't have any color, and yes, it protects painted parts from chipping and smooth parts from getting scratched. Just like what no3ljm said, topcoats "mists" parts but that depends on the type of topcoat used. ;D |
|
|
|
Post by no3Ljm on Aug 30, 2006 15:31:28 GMT 8
thanks itemtracer for the correction/clarifications. now i learn again a thing or two about topcoats.
i answered it kasi based on my experience with the topcoat spray paints. i didn't know that you can use topcoats as plain clear paint. so it has the same content paint pala like acrylic/lacquer. ok. 
about the oil in finger. based on my experience, i did try to rub the cutmarks with my finger and it remove the white marks surrounding the cut. so i think the oil from our fingers help a lot.
i think it's about time to try the 'sanding technique' shown on the No-Paint Technique feature. ;D
|
|
|
|
Post by delta408 on Aug 31, 2006 0:25:44 GMT 8
this could make for more economical Gunpla modelling. ;D
|
|
|
|
Post by itemtracer on Aug 31, 2006 9:45:44 GMT 8
thanks itemtracer for the correction/clarifications. now i learn again a thing or two about topcoats.
i answered it kasi based on my experience with the topcoat spray paints. i didn't know that you can use topcoats as plain clear paint. so it has the same content paint pala like acrylic/lacquer. ok.
about the oil in finger. based on my experience, i did try to rub the cutmarks with my finger and it remove the white marks surrounding the cut. so i think the oil from our fingers help a lot.
i think it's about time to try the 'sanding technique' shown on the No-Paint Technique feature. ;D
Oily fingers! Haha~! I must admit that my fingers did get a bit oily back when I didn't wash off the mold release residue from the parts trees of my kits... Lots of incidents involving my cutter slipping and impaling my slippers inbetween my toes!  IMHO, Plastic parts (ABS or other types Not sure if polycaps' plastic can also be affected), whenever it's bent, produces white discoloration. The darker the color of the plastic part, the more obvious the discoloration Clear plastic parts suffer the same problem. This can be remedied *slightly* by returning the bent part back to its original shape. ABS plastic becomes permanently discolored if bent too hard.  (The only real ways to remedy this, I think, is to paint over it, or to sand it down until it disappears. I think that whenever we cut a part off of its sprue, the actual "action" of the cutter's blades separating the single piece of plastic into two parts produces a slight bend and discolors the part. Notice that discoloration usually happens AROUND the part that was cut, and not in the cut itself! (Usually means that the cutters are either blunt or too thick) If there's white discoloration found in the middle of the cut, that would mean the cutters/clippers stretches* the plastic apart rather than actually cutting it. Whenever this occurs, I rub the tip of my fingernail on the discolored part in the opposite direction of the cut I made (ex: If I cut downwards, I rub it back in place in an upwards motion) Kind of like placing the plastic in its "original position". I try to avoid this by using a very (I mean VERY) sharp cutter, a thin, sharp scalpel or a good pair of plastic clippers. Nowadays, though, I prefer scraping it off with the edge of a sharp bladed instrument Please pardon my wall of text! ;D |
|
definitely a must-try kit building experience. 
(The only real ways to remedy this, I think, is to paint over it, or to sand it down until it disappears.