modeling tips! for newbie like me!

[delta408]

when you sand the glued parts to make it smooth, there will be little to no discoloration. my solution is to prime and paint.

[neodark]

I've got a few question for those who reside in cebu area.

Where can i buy an effective yet inexpensive plastic glue/cement/epoxy , any specific brand recomendations and locations where to get them ?also for primer and top coat same questions as above.

As for the paint,I've been to Tamiya [Ayala branch] and inquired about the spray paints.. the prices gave me a heart attack! P225 for a small sized,But then again this hobby is expensive.
Can you guys recommend me any other brand the will suffice? w/o compromising quality. I've also seen thise "Rj" brand of spray paint in True Value for about P100+ its the large canister and label'ed as "Acrylic Epoxy" are those types good ?

[delta408]

neodark said:

I've got a few question for those who reside in cebu area.

Where can i buy an effective yet inexpensive plastic glue/cement/epoxy , any specific brand recomendations and locations where to get them ?also for primer and top coat same questions as above.

As for the paint,I've been to Tamiya [Ayala branch] and inquired about the spray paints.. the prices gave me a heart attack! P225 for a small sized,But then again this hobby is expensive.
Can you guys recommend me any other brand the will suffice? w/o compromising quality. I've also seen thise "Rj" brand of spray paint in True Value for about P100+ its the large canister and label'ed as "Acrylic Epoxy" are those types good ?

Let me see...
As for glue, i've been using any superglue for my FAZZ. Sure it makes the plastic part whitish but since i sand, prime and paint the parts, it doesn't matter how white it gets.

as for an alternative to Tamiya Spraypaint, RJ is good. just look at the can and see if it says it's good for plastic. The salespersons at True Value will also be happy to point out what paints are good for plastic (and still good quality).

I hope this helps.

[neodark]

delta408

Thanks for the input,as for the primer what specific brand do you use? do you paint the entire kit or just the affected parts when removing the seams?

[ikabod]

it depends actually to the modellers preferences. some like to prime the whole kit others don't. for me i prime the whole kits, mainly becuase am using acrylic colors so priming is a must. once i get a well ventilated area, then i'll try lacquer based paints and paint my kits straight up. . .

[christine_03]

me i prime the seams. cause the scars after sanding are still there... i only prime the whole kit if i have spare primer around. hehe. it depends on the paint you use too. priming helps the paint to stick.. specially when you do hand painting.

neodark said:

delta408

Thanks for the input,as for the primer what specific brand do you use? do you paint the entire kit or just the affected parts when removing the seams?

[qb]

Also wondering about that....what's a good primer?

[Checkmate!]

quattro03 said:

Also wondering about that....what's a good primer?

I use Tamiya Primer FINE (gray for dark parts and white for lighter colored parts. Just be sure not to pick the Metal primer can a. ;D

I have'nt tried using Gunze's Mr. Surfacer yet though.

[neodark]

snap0714 said:

me i prime the seams. cause the scars after sanding are still there... i only prime the whole kit if i have spare primer around. hehe. it depends on the paint you use too. priming helps the paint to stick.. specially when you do hand painting.

neodark said:

delta408

Thanks for the input,as for the primer what specific brand do you use? do you paint the entire kit or just the affected parts when removing the seams?

I see, example i sand and prime the the legs and when i spray do i need to repaint the entire legs or just the affected part with the primer?

[christine_03]

neodark said:

I see, example i sand and prime the the legs and when i spray do i need to repaint the entire legs or just the affected part with the primer?

if you're asking if you need to repaint after priming. well yes cause the color scheme would change. getting a paint mix like the color of the sprue is hard. and when you paint only the primed part. you might see the painted part sticking out. or what you can do is paint the primed part then use some topcoat. that should even out the paint. hehe.

if you're asking do you need to prime all, well its up to you... normally i dont. because priming sometimes cover the panel lines. so i limit myself to 2 coats max of priming.. sorry i didnt quite understand what ur asking.. answered it the way i interpreted it. hehe.

[delta408]

neodark said:

delta408

Thanks for the input,as for the primer what specific brand do you use? do you paint the entire kit or just the affected parts when removing the seams?

I think that painting the entire kit will give you a better effect overall since you will have a uniform surface.

[ikabod]

and priming the whole kit let you see if every thing is sealed, smooth and uniform surface, small mistakes. so you could do a re work. got this tip lang rin. . .hope it helps

[kangkong]

This is what I do although It is a bit of a hard work: for seamlines i use tamiya cement (white one) brush a very hefty amount on one part then another hefty in the other then close em together, wait for say 30 mins then sand away with 400 or 600 grit of sand paper. If sanding with that grit doesn't eliminate seamlines (w/c not often) then I apply Tamiya Extra Thin Cement (Green) to the part where I see a seam line then sand with 600 again. Then if I am satisfied with it i sand it again with 800 then 1000 if there is a need to smoothen it out. Then after that I prime the kit with mr surfacer 1000. If I feel bumps or seamlines coming out when I run my fingernails where the seamlines is then I sand it again with 800 grit. (Following me so far??) Then after that I re prime the kit again then start painting. Now when using Tamiya basic putty don't apply it from the tube directly into the part. What you should do is have a small container where you can put the putty in then thin it with Laquer thinner (Gunze or Tamiya Laquer thinner will be the best). consistency should be the same of that of a glue. Note: Tamiya basic putty doesn't cover BIG gaps nor even close seamlines. The best thing to use for sealing are Tamiya/Gunze plastic cements(very sandable), CA or SuperGlue(sandable but a pain in the a@#), SGT or Super Glue and Talcum Powder(yes Pulbos)(a bit sandable compared to Super Glue). SGT is also a poor man's cement. Why? Well it works as a cement and a putty all in one though you have to live with the hardship of sanding to much.

All of these tips are from my personal experience. You are welcomed to try it or not.

[qb]

Have another question: How do you maintain the paint brush? Do you simply dunk it in thinner after using and wash the paint away or is there something else that i should be doing?

thanks!

[neodark]

Id like to ask about applying wet transfer decals..

i've read some faqs and from what i understand it goes like this

1.)gloss the surface
2.)make sure its clean
3.)minimize the decal borders by using scalpel
4.)let it swim in a basin of luke warm water
5.)when it starts to separate,prepare the surface by wetting it
6.)apply the decal via fingers or tweezers
7.)when decal is alliged at the desired position start absorbing water from it via paper towels
8.)let decal dry
9.)spray a protective coat of a desired type


did i miss anything ? aside from that decal liquid something that helps the decal stick..