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Post by christine_03 on Aug 30, 2006 10:54:24 GMT 8
hehe. im a newbie so forgive me for asking too many questions...
anyway i just want the best and cheapest way to remove the following paints and stuff.
1. tamiya enamel paints 2. acrylic paints 3. plated kits. 4. gundam markers
for number 2. i used alcohol and zonrox. both worked well. alcohol was hard because you need to rub it really hard. zonrox is quick and easy. just dip the plastic for 15-20mins. then its gone. sometimes makes the plastic "marupok"-sorry cant think of the translation ;D
for the rest, any alternative solution would be appreciated. give the pro's and con's if you can. thanks
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kangkong
DX Gashapon Super Robot
Posts: 120
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Post by kangkong on Aug 30, 2006 13:34:44 GMT 8
enamel and gundam markerd painted kits can be soaked in Clorox or Zonrox i dunno bout the brittle(marupok) part but that never happened to me even though I soaked the parts for almost 2 months w/o the polycaps of course. Plated kits can also be soaked in clorox but it may take at least 1 to 2 weeks depending on what type of chrome or plated kit it is. The best solution would be Preston DOT 3 Break Fluid (mind you of the DOT3). It'll take off any chrome, silver or gold plating in your kit but also mind you of the hazards 1. do not cover the bowl or container where you put in the break fluid w/ the parts cause it heats up and will melt the plastic. 2. use rubber gloves to remove the parts that was soaked cause like I said it heats up. 3. don't try to strip all at once in just the same container cause it will just slow down the process.
Hope that helps
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Post by christine_03 on Aug 30, 2006 16:19:27 GMT 8
ok thanks... i'll try the clorox again later. on the average how long would that take for enamel. cause some parts(ung asa sulok) just wont go away? ill stick to clorox for plated kits too. dont want any part melting. thanks alot kkk. enamel and gundam markerd painted kits can be soaked in Clorox or Zonrox i dunno bout the brittle(marupok) part but that never happened to me even though I soaked the parts for almost 2 months w/o the polycaps of course. Plated kits can also be soaked in clorox but it may take at least 1 to 2 weeks depending on what type of chrome or plated kit it is. The best solution would be Preston DOT 3 Break Fluid (mind you of the DOT3). It'll take off any chrome, silver or gold plating in your kit but also mind you of the hazards 1. do not cover the bowl or container where you put in the break fluid w/ the parts cause it heats up and will melt the plastic. 2. use rubber gloves to remove the parts that was soaked cause like I said it heats up. 3. don't try to strip all at once in just the same container cause it will just slow down the process. Hope that helps
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neodark
DX Gashapon Super Robot
Posts: 239
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Post by neodark on Aug 30, 2006 16:47:56 GMT 8
In both clorox and zonrox which has the lesser concentration ?
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Post by r2d2t2 on Aug 30, 2006 17:13:09 GMT 8
i use ordinary thinner (avail at local hardware stores for P20 per bottle) to erase tamiya enamel paints.
i think pencil eraser works for gundam markers (havnt tried this yet though).
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Post by christine_03 on Aug 30, 2006 17:16:24 GMT 8
wont the local thinner melt the plastic? what brand? and how do you apply it? i'll try the eraser later.. ;D thanks. i use ordinary thinner (avail at local hardware stores for P20 per bottle) to erase tamiya enamel paints. i think pencil eraser works for gundam markers (havnt tried this yet though).
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Post by r2d2t2 on Aug 30, 2006 17:30:03 GMT 8
what brand? im not sure. any brand will do i think. i dip the cotton buds on thinner and it does the job very well.
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neodark
DX Gashapon Super Robot
Posts: 239
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Post by neodark on Aug 30, 2006 19:00:24 GMT 8
wont the local thinner melt the plastic? what brand? and how do you apply it? i'll try the eraser later.. ;D thanks. i use ordinary thinner (avail at local hardware stores for P20 per bottle) to erase tamiya enamel paints. i think pencil eraser works for gundam markers (havnt tried this yet though). pencil erasers work well with thinning or evening those lines
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kangkong
DX Gashapon Super Robot
Posts: 120
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Post by kangkong on Aug 30, 2006 21:58:33 GMT 8
Snap for the edges or the "sulok sulok" use toothbrush to get rid of em hey you can't strip them perfectly ehehhee.
Neodark,
I dunno bout the concentration why not try em both.
I think what R2 is using is the Industrial Paint Thinner is that right bro? What i am sure melts plastic is the industrial Laquer Thinner. Then again what I do might or might not work for you.
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Post by delta408 on Aug 31, 2006 0:20:17 GMT 8
if you want to strip paint, you can try looking in groceries for a brand called "Simple Green". It's a household cleaner that smells great. "Pinesol" is another you can try but although it smells nice, it's a bit strong so make sure you dip the parts for a limited time, perhaps not more than overnight. i use "Simple Green" to strip acrylic from plastic miniatures and i found it works wonders for Gunpla. It can strip paint AND primer down to bare plastic without any bad effects. i haven't tried stripping plated kits though.
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Post by ikabod on Aug 31, 2006 16:17:36 GMT 8
do i have to really remove the polycaps first before dunking it on a bowl of zonrox? what if it polycaps are in a sealed part? (
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Post by delta408 on Aug 31, 2006 21:27:14 GMT 8
i think that any paint remover could affect polycaps. i have had no experience as to what kind of effects happen but i would definitely try to remove polycaps before dipping plastiv in any paint remover.
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Post by christine_03 on Sept 1, 2006 3:20:52 GMT 8
i've tried it with polycaps before. i didnt notice any damage what so ever. i left it for half a day i think. only difference is the smell. hehe. dont know if you prolong the process though. zonrox is not as strong as other fluids but does the job. best for acrylic. less than an hour and paint is chipping. im trying if it works for enamels too. do i have to really remove the polycaps first before dunking it on a bowl of zonrox? what if it polycaps are in a sealed part? (
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Post by ikabod on Sept 1, 2006 10:48:54 GMT 8
you can really see it's chipping? hhhmm it's been gong for almost 2 days now but i haven;t seen any paint being chipped of the plastic yet. . . hhhmm and i thought those "magic colors" i've been using is very easy to romove, for when i am just applying it, it kinda doesn't stick well / cover the area being painted in one brush stroke. . . but then again i've cured it by baking it under the sun for like an hour each day for 2 days hhhmm
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Post by christine_03 on Sept 1, 2006 12:12:06 GMT 8
oh so you are using a diff. brand of paint. im using mr. hobby color water based. chipping starts after 15mins. but only on some parts. after a day most acrylic paints were removed. except the ones on the corner and panel lines... the chipping parts can easily be removed by cloth. update: just checked if it would work on enamels. 1 day in the container. minimal changes. no chipping for enamels. although you can wipe off some parts already. you can really see it's chipping? hhhmm it's been gong for almost 2 days now but i haven;t seen any paint being chipped of the plastic yet. . . hhhmm and i thought those "magic colors" i've been using is very easy to romove, for when i am just applying it, it kinda doesn't stick well / cover the area being painted in one brush stroke. . . but then again i've cured it by baking it under the sun for like an hour each day for 2 days hhhmm
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